June 8, 2016

Lake Edison ferry pickup to Vermillion Valley Resort

Miles: 0

We woke up feeling refreshed and relieved. We had made a decision. We would get off trail and go to either LA or San Francisco to research trail conditions in northern California.

Neither of us want to stop hiking. We just want to stop fearing for our lives every time we come to a water crossing.

We enjoyed sleeping in and packed up the tent. The resort had promised to have a boat at the shore to pick us up at 8:30am.

We were sitting on the shore by 8:00, eager for breakfast and to figure out our next steps.

At 9:15am we saw two small boats heading in our direction. By this time Paul, the guy who had camped with us, was pacing back and forth. He was very hungry and eager to get to VVR.

It was a pleasant 30 minute boat ride. We got to the resort, plugged in all of our devices to charge and started chatting with other hikers.

Josh and Tom (the 2 British guys we have hiked with on and off since the beginning) were there. A few hours later Sue and Ruben arrived.

It was wonderful to see everyone had made it safely to VVR. People were smiling but they were tired too. The last section had been tough and it showed.

We chatted with a guy who was hiking the JMT. He had walked through what we were heading into. From his description there were 3 significant creek crossings from VVR to Mammoth.

To Laurie this was reassuring, 3 is better than 5 but it was unnerving to hear people talk about a waterfall falling onto the trail.

Paul had promised to hike with us. He was looking for company and we were looking for reassurance and safety in numbers.

Laurie slowly warmed up to the idea of hiking to Mammoth. By noon we had planned to continue. It was only 24 miles and Paul would hike with us. We would scout every crossing and take our time.

The plan was to take the 3 pm ferry back over to the trail so we could hike to the base of Silver Pass. We could cross the streams in the afternoon, not ideal, but could always camp out if it got too sketchy.

At 2:15 we got word that the boat ride was canceled. The wind had picked up and they were done shuttling people for the day. We were bummed.

We could have hiked 6.5 miles around the lake back to the PCT but didn’t want to.

Man!

We reluctantly set up our tent.

Laurie was ambivalent. For every previous pass we had camped close to the base to ascend in the am when the snow is harder and more pleasant. It made for a much more enjoyable experience. Starting off at 9 am meant lower water but potentially a long slog down Silver Pass.

“We could always do a short day” reassured Andy.

We had enough food for 4 days and the hike should take 2.5 at most!

Ok, we had options.

Laurie was still uneasy. Her gut was talking. We had planned for our parents to meet us in Mammoth on Saturday and she didn’t want to change those plans. She likes itineraries to work!

Around 5 pm another JMT hiker showed up to VVR. His wife, Annie, had been at VVR since 11am awaiting his arrival. He showed us a video of the upcoming 3 crossings.

Immediately Laurie wrapped her arms around herself… She was nervous.

She turned to Andy, “I don’t want to do that.”

“Ok, we don’t have to.”

And just like that our plans changed again.

Annie and Morgan live in Orange County. They drove us to Andy’s parents home in LA.

It was bittersweet leaving VVR. We said goodbye to everyone we’ve been hiking with and people waved to us as we drove off. People we didn’t even know.

Laurie felt tears well up in her eyes, these people had become family – an instant community. It is amazing how fast a bond can grow through adversity.

It was a long drive and we both felt like we had been hit by trucks. We haven’t been up past 11 pm in a very long time. We were both physically and emotionally exhausted.

We arrived at Andy’s parents home around 2am, left our packs in the living room and went to bed. We’d been in the woods for 6+ days and didn’t even have the energy for a shower.

We want to go back, we are not done with hiking. Right now we need a break. Laurie is scared and her confidence has been shaken. We want to return to the trail when and where we can enjoy ourselves.

Now we have to figure out where that will be. Stay tuned!

Tonight we are grateful for lucky hitches and the courage to listen to our gut and back out when something feels too scary.

June 7, 2016

Sallie Keyes Lakes (mile 863.7) to Edison Lake (mile 877.7)

Miles: 15.4 (14 PCT miles + 1.4 miles to ferry pick up point)

Our day started off like any other. We were up at 5am and hiking by 6, ready to walk the 1.7 miles and 700 feet up to Selden Pass.

This was the easiest pass yet. We didn’t put on our crampons until descending from the summit to Marie Lake and beyond.

We hiked with Dirk and Sabine and were soon joined by So Hard and Lefty. Stoic joined us moments later and we took another group shot to celebrate our successful hike up a pass.

We didn’t see So Hard, Lefty or Stoic after that.

Marie Lake was one of Andy’s favorite lakes when he hiked the JMT in 2012 and he was especially excited to be back there. As with everything else, the still frozen Marie Lake looked very different. It was even more beautiful.

The descent was pleasant as the snow was still quite hard and the scenery was spectacular. We lost the trail a few times but managed to hike our way down to a beautiful meadow, keeping Dirk and Sabine in our sights.

After a few switchbacks we reached our final hurdle of this leg, Bear Creek. This ‘creek’ has a reputation of being a difficult crossing during the early season, and especially so in normal to above average snow years.

Dirk and Sabine were scouting the crossing when we arrived. Andy’s stomach tied in a knot. It was flowing…fast!

Could we do this? Andy wondered to himself.

Soon Dirk and Sabine were packed and ready to give it a go. All was well when they first got in the water but after a few steps Sabine was shouting in German.

The current got stronger.

She kept shouting.

She grabbed onto Dirk, losing her footing a few times. Finally, after what seemed like forever, they made it across.

She was shaken. But they made it!

Now it was our turn.

We extended our trekking poles and elected to cross using the same line as Dirk.

Laurie went first.

Not even a third of the way across Laurie shouted “Turn around.”

“Turn around! It’s too strong.”

Back at the shore we studied the current and chose to cross a few feet down from the previous spot.

We entered the water again, Laurie going in first again.

All was well for the first few steps. Then Laurie hit the strong part of the current. She paused for a split second and the current unsettled her.

She fought to regain her footing but it was too late.

“LAURIE, LAURIE” Andy shouted as Laurie began to float downstream.

Andy turned around as quickly as he could to shore and headed downstream.

Laurie fought the current, turned herself around and by grabbing the rocks below made it back to shore 10 feet down the river.

She was a shocked, wet and her legs were bruised from the rocks under the water but she we ok.

By the time we made it back up to where the trail crossed the creek Dirk was also there. He had crossed back to make sure Laurie was ok.

He insisted on taking Laurie’s pack and helping her get across.

Slowly, with Laurie holding on to Dirk, they made their way back into the water and went for it.

They both made it to the other side soonafter.

Now it was Andy’s turn.

He stepped in the water and went almost a third of the way, then stopped for a few moments before turning around.

The current was just too strong for him.

He took out his other pole and went for it again, with a hiking pole in each hand.

But near the same spot he turned around again.

Dammit.

Bear Creek isn’t very deep – at Andy’s thighs at its deepest, but it packs a punch.

How would be get across he wondered?

Dirk came to Andy’s rescue too, crossing yet again, taking his pack and escorting him across.

It was a hairy crossing for Andy, even while hanging onto Dirk.

Dirk had chosen to cross where Laurie attempted to cross before she fell in.

Andy couldn’t see where to place his feet so he kept slipping. At one point his left foot got stuck in between rocks. He grabbed onto Dirk, pulling both of them backwards. But Dirk held on and pushed through.

Andy finally managed to get his foot free and made it across.

What a wild ride.

We are so thankful and grateful for Dirk. Without him we couldn’t get across.

On the other side we took stock of what was lost downstream. Laurie lost one trekking pole and a water bottle. And Dirk lost a water crossing shoe helping Andy.

While we were resting, drying ourselves and warming up (the creek was really cold), two hikers appeared.

They asked about the best place to cross and went for it. The first hiker made it across without issue, making it look so easy.

The second hiker who was slightly taller than the first one, crossed with relative ease as well, with his smartphone between his lips.

Wtf?

What kind of skills do Dirk and these guys possess that we don’t? Why was this so much harder for us?

We presume it’s experience.

We lack the experience in crossing strong, gushing rivers.

It could also be technique.

Dirk’s technique was vastly different than the other two hikers’ – who faced the stream.

After 15 minutes we were all dressed and hiking again. We turned a corner and saw a relatively calm, wide river similar to Evolution Creek.

It was Bear Creek.

Dammit.

Why didn’t we look up or downstream before attempting to cross where Dirk and Sabine did?

We knew this coming in. Scope out the rivers before crossing. Look up and down river. Go half a mile in either direction if you have to. But we didn’t do that.

Strength in numbers and other experienced hikers knowing more than we do (or so we think), caused us to follow instead of choose our own paths.

Damn these lessons.

It was a hard way to learn this one again, but we both realize we need to do this for ourselves.

Traveling in a pack and being in a herd is reassuring for Laurie. But it can be false reassurance if it puts us at risk. We have to think for ourselves. We have to see for ourselves. And we have to make decisions for ourselves.

After crossing two more swollen creeks Dirk and Sabine took a break while we continued on toward Bear Ridge.

We finally got service and stopped to call Tuolumne Meadows on behalf of Dirk and Sabine.

Their package should be waiting for them at the Post Office there – a great relief for both of them.

We thanked Dirk and Sabine again for all their help and companionship and took off. We had to hike 7 miles to catch the 4:45 ferry to VVR.

We hiked fast, not talking much and eating on the go.

At 4:20pm we were sitting on the shores of Edison Lake.

We talked about our thoughts and emotions surrounding today waiting for the ferry.

Andy felt demoralized and Laurie wasn’t having fun anymore.

We had pushed through the Sierras since Lone Pine. It’s been beautiful but it’s come at a price. Laurie is grateful to make it to camp every night because the day is finally over.

And she’d quivered every time we came across a stream crossing.

We just aren’t having fun anymore. And while thru hiking isn’t meant to be easy, it can be fun.

The desert was challenging but it was fun. We were safe there. We laughed a lot. The last few days in the Sierras we haven’t felt safe. We feel we are in over our heads.

And while we can push on knowing we’re through the worst of the crossings, we don’t know what the rest of the Sierras have in store for us.

Snow is melting rapidly. All streams have the potential to be swollen. That isn’t fun for us.

What we’ve both come to realize – especially Andy – is that being together and enjoying this wonderful time together is more important than hiking in a straight line from Mexico to Canada.

So we’ve decided to skip the rest of the Sierras and come back after finishing Oregon and Washington.

We’re not sure where we will skip to but we will figure it out. Stay tuned.

It’s now 5pm and the ferry never came. High winds being the reason when we called them.

Laurie started crying. It’s been a long, hard, emotional day.

Do we walk 6+ more miles to get to VVR tonight or camp at this side of the lake and take the ferry there tomorrow?

We decided to camp at the lake with Paul, another disappointed hiker who showed up shortly after we did.

C’est la vie.

Tonight we’re grateful for Dirk and the fact that we’re safe and uninjured.

June 6, 2016

Evolution Creek alternate crossing (mile 850.6) to Sallie Keys Lakes (mile 863.7)

Miles: 13.1

Our alarm was set for 5 am but Laurie maintains she didn’t hear it. Andy was wearing ear plugs so he doesn’t hear anything – not even the rushing river 100 feet from the tent.

We had wanted to get up early to catch up with Dirk and Sabine to give them our extra food. They have a box waiting in Tuolomne Meadows but, like most people, they are going slower than planned because of the snow.

We also wanted to thank them for their kindness and on the PCT food is the most valuable currency. They get up early and had talked about wanting to do 20 miles…we hoped they would change their mind because we enjoy hiking with them.

We were walking just shortly after the sun kissed our tent. The mosquitoes weren’t out yet and for that we were grateful.

We walked about 10 minutes before reaching where the trail normally crosses Evolution Creek. The water moves faster here and although lower in the morning, we were very happy with our decision to cross at the alternate.

Shortly after starting down the switchbacks we saw a rainbow emerging from the forceful Evolution Creek waterfall. It was beautiful and a great way to start the morning. The trail switchbacked down to the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. At the bottom Lefty, Stoic, So Hard and Pounder caught up with us.

They crossed Evolution Creek this morning through the meadow as well and the water was about 2 inches lower than yesterday afternoon.

We were happy with our decision. Starting the day with wet feet isn’t fun.

We hiked through the woods, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. The walking was easy but our feet were tired and the bugs were feasting on us.

We have been hiking for 12 days straight. Some days are longer than others. We have both found that trail runners are more comfortable than our boots. We look forward to switching out our shoes in Mammoth at the end of the week.

The next few miles were mellow. We were in and out of the forest, walking on soft pine needles, soft dirt and rocks.

We found Dirk and Sabine sitting under a tree near a bridge crossing at the Piute Pass junction. We were happy to learn that they planned to camp with us tonight.

We hiked on. This part of the trail was familiar to both of us. There was no snow to obstruct our memories. We both remembered the descent from Sallie Keys Lakes to Muir Trail Ranch to be tedious and steep.

Andy remembers thinking to himself that he wouldn’t want to go up those switchbacks, but that’s exactly what we had to do.

The trail started climbing gently at first. We walked through soggy meadows and forests with lots of mosquitos. Laurie started walking faster, swinging her arms and swearing at the mosquitos.

Andy put on his bug shirt and patiently walked behind her. Normally he is the one with sweeter blood but today Laurie was the winner.

As we walked up we left the water puddles and damp ground. The misquitoes became less abundant and the switchbacks took over. We zig zagged our way up the mountain. It was just past noon and it was hot. Exposed and HOT!

We climbed on, not wanting to stop in fear of being bitten.

Around 1:30pm we crossed Senger Creek and had lunch on a rock. From here it was only 2.5 miles to camp.

Laurie dragged. She had used all of her steam fighting misquitoes while climbing and was tired. With very little miles left for the day we took an hour long lunch.

Dirk and Sabine caught up with us and stayed to chat. They had questions about how best to ship their bear can up the trail since they want to keep it as a souvenir of their PCT hike.

We splashed cold water on our faces from Senger Creek, shouldered our packs and slowly made our way past patches of snow and through waterlogged meadows up towards Sallie Keys lakes.

In many places the trail was a river. We walked on rocks and grassy patches trying to keep our feet dry.

Around 3:30 we turned the corner and saw tents.

Home!

We had planned to camp with the crew we’ve been leapfrogging with the last few days. They were set up when we arrived so we went in search of a flat spot. It just so happened we found a spot next to Dirk and Sabine.

We got settled, put up the tent and went back to the lake. Andy got water and Laurie took a bird bath. Brrrr.

We returned to our tent and napped for about a half hour until Laurie overheated. There were grey clouds overhead but it was still warm under the sun.

We went over to Dirk and Sabine and reassured them we would call Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow if we had service on Laurie’s phone at Bear Ridge.

They are such great people. Very sweet and genuine. We want to do all we can to help them.

We left them with our guidebook pages, gathered our food and went to have dinner with Stoic, So Hard, Lefty and Pounder.

We haven’t had dinner with a group of hikers all trail. They are good people and we had fun getting to know more about them.

Around 7pm we returned to our tents to clean up and go to bed. Tomorrow promises to be another challenging day with a pass early in the morning and then crossing Bear Creek a few miles later.

All that is for tomorrow. We are tired and need sleep. Today was supposed to be easy – no passes or river crossings – but it was hard. I think we need a zero soon.

Tonight we are grateful for being able to help fellow hikers and clear, cold water.