April 20, 2016

Ziggy and the bear (mile 210.8) to Mission Creek Stonehouse

Miles: 18.1 (14.9 PCT miles + 1 mile for water + 2.2 miles on mission creek road

We left LA at 6:30am to drive back to Ziggy and the Bear. We got there at 8:15am, taped our feet, shuffled our belongings and set out into the heat at 8:45.

Today was the start of a 4 day- 60 mile adventure. Laurie was nervous, Andy was excited.

The PCT is closed from mile 234.5 to onyx summit (mile 252.1) due to the Lake Fire. We are attempting to walk around the closure-tying together some PCT miles, some dirt roads, some walks through towns and possibly (if we are lucky, some hitchhiking). The difficult and unnerving aspect of this reroute is the lack of knowledge of the roads and water availability.

On the PCT things are simple. Almost too simple. There are apps that use gps so you know exactly where you are in relation to the trail, where water sources and campsites are located, and much more. The thinking is done for you. All you have to do is walk.

Now- as we venture off the PCT it is like walking back in time. Back to a time when you have to use good ole maps. We do have google maps- so I guess we aren’t going all old school.

We head out on the PCT, walking past the Mesa wind farm and amongst dry tumble weed. Everything is super dry-it is easy to see how this area could burn.

We climb, at times gradually and other times more steeply. The wind, which we have fondly named “gusto” comes to visit rather sporadically. (Living in San Francisco where the fog is named “Karl” it seemed only natural to name the wind.)

On top of the ridge the wind picks up and flips our umbrellas inside out.

“Pace yourself Gusto, pace yourself” Andy shouts.

We turn our umbrellas right side out, store them away and resort to using our hats and many layers of sunscreen.
The trails winds down and around the hillsides past many cow patties (we never saw any cows) and drops into a canyon. In the distance we see Whitewater Canyon. It’s an oasis in the desert. Lukewarm water flowing through an arid landscape.

Surreal and beautiful.

We pass some botanists and chat about the area. They know the roads we are planning to take- cannot speak to the details of water availability- but the conversation alone puts Laurie at ease.

We walk another 2 miles and have lunch in the shade by the river. Two day hikers stop to chat. Recently when people learn we are thru- hikers they get excited and want to know all about us. Most frequently we are asked what kind of jobs we have that allow us to take 6 months off? Really though, what they want to know is how we are doing this.

Andy gently reminds them that if we really want to do something, we will find ways to make it happen. He says that our brains work differently when we commit to doing something. We forget the excuses and start thinking of solutions.

After an hour long break, we pack up and hit the trail as the sun begins encroaching our shade. This time we take a total of 9 liters with us. It’s more than we need, way more, but we’d rather have extra than run out of water out here.

It’s 2:30pm and nearing 90 degrees. We make promises to one another to drink plenty and say something if we start to overheat.

Right out of the gate, we climb 600 ft, then down, then up again. Thankfully our friend gusto keeps us cool.

We walk along the ridge appreciating the beauty of the desert. It’s really pretty here. And unlike the rest of the trail, this section is deserted because majority of PCT hikers are catching a ride to Big Bear due to the closure.

We enjoy the serenity of the quiet desert, find the still flowing Mission Creek, top off all our bottles (we are carrying 9 liters again – Laurie carrying 4, and Andy 5) and start walking the fire road.

At 6:30pm we walk into the Mission Creek Preserve to find the storehouse picnic area. This will be home for tonight.

It’s really windy here, so we sleep indoors. What’s really great about this place is they have running water and the cleanest toilets we’ve ever come across. There is soap, tp and paper towels! Thank you to whomever keeps this place in tip top shape!

We eat dinner outside sitting on a picnic table, listening to coyotes howling in the distance.

It’s time for bed in our cozy adobe. It’s a little too warm but it beats getting pounded by the wind. Goodnight.

Tonight we are grateful for the wind and running water.

Laurie woke up at 4 am to a familiar “pop”

“Shit” Andy whispered in the dark.

“Was that you?”

“Yup” Laurie replied in a sleepy and disappointed tone.

Now both of our pads had busted. 

A few mornings prior Andy was sitting up stuffing his sleeping bag when his pad popped. Initially neither of us knew what had happened. On closer inspection we noted that one of the baffles had come undone. The pad didn’t deflate completely, but with one big lump in the middle of the pad, it wouldn’t be very comfortable to sleep on. We sleep on Exped hyperlite pads. They are super comfy but apparently not super resilient. 

Andy was willing to make it work until we got to Big Bear on Friday, but now that both of us would be sleeping on lopsided pads we decided to attend to the issue.

So today we took an unexpected zero. 

Andy called a friend who drove 2 hours to come and get us. Thanks Tony! We exchanged our pads at REI and Andy got a new backpack.

Andy has had his pack for over 6 years and dealt with minor discomforts thinking it was all just part of backpacking. Majority of the weight fell on his shoulders rather than his hips. With our heavy water carries these minor discomforts became more bothersome. We tried to fiddle with the straps and placement of the hip belt, but that only led to love handle chafage- not pleasant! Today Andy settled on the REI flash 65- we hope it is a keeper!

With only 2 days on trail, Laurie struggled with feeling like she didn’t “deserve” this day off. She felt she hadn’t walked far enough to have another feast and shower. Funny how these basic parts of life are interpreted in her mind as rewards, rather than just a benefit of living.

It is amazing how deep rooted internal monologues surface even on long journeys like this.

This, however, is the life of a thru hiker- learning to roll with the punches and change plans on a whim. Laurie, who is accustomed to plans, is slower to adapt to this way of life than Andy.

Once at the home of Andy’s parents we feasted twice, took a short nap, laundered our clothes and attended to “adult” issues like car insurance and health insurance. The day flew by.

It is now time for bed as tomorrow the adventure continues!

Today we are grateful for good friends and  Rei’s return policy.  

Date: April 18, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 193) to ziggy and the bear (mile 210.8)

Miles: 17.8

Today was all downhill. We wanted to start early since we would be dropping down into the heat of the desert but our sleeping bags were too cozy.

We woke up to see the sun slowly lighting up the face of Mt. San Jacinto. Laurie had taken a Benadryl the night before and was slow to rise. For the first time Andy was packed and ready before her. I guess next time he doesn’t need the 10 minute handicap. But he does need to work on his celebration dance 😅

We headed down into the dry, dusty valley. The windmills grew larger as we got closer. Lizards ran out of our way as we slowly descended. The trail was gradually graded but the sun and heat intensified as the day wore on.

Laurie entertained herself with an audiobook to distract from the endless seeming descent. Andy stared out into the opposing hills trying to figure out where the next days’ adventure would take us.

Finally, after 12 miles and 5,500 ft we reached a water faucet.

“Which came first- the water faucet or the PCT?” Andy asked.

Laurie didn’t know and was too hot and tired to try to think of an answer.

The downhill wasn’t fun. It was a slog. And it wasn’t that easy either. Although gently graded, the heat and long miles do take their toll.

We walked the next mile on a closed paved road. Laurie chuckled at herself as she paced back and forth trying to figure out how to get around or under the gate without having to take off her umbrella. Amazing how lazy we get sometimes!

It was then another 3 sandy miles to Ziggy and the Bear. The longest miles of Laurie’s life!

We dogged through the flat land, sinking into the sand with each step. Just brutal.

We walked under the railroad tracks and Interstate 10, then up a gentle incline, still walking on what seemed like quicksand to the Trail Angels ziggy and the bear.

Laurie was like a wilted flower when we finally arrived. The bear had us sign in and took a picture of us holding our names and number – like mugshots. We were hikers # 201 and 202. Crazy to think that 200 people are ahead of us this early in the season! Bear said that they had a total of 1,800 hikers last year.

Laurie came back to life after drinking a cold Gatorade. We soaked our feet, washed out our socks and hung out in the anarondack chairs on the porch. The entire backyard is covered in carpet and it felt good to walk around with barefeet. We ate dinner and chatted with other hikers until it was bedtime.

We thank ziggy and bear for their hospitality. This place is a safe haven from the desert heat and wind. It was also nice to end here after a tough day.

Tonight we are grateful for healthy limbs and water!