September 7, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 1006.9) to bushcamp (mile 1018.2)

Miles: 11.3

Our total mile: 2376.9

We both slept well and were walking by 7 am. The brown hills surrounding us were golden. We walked past a family of deer as we made our way up to the ridge above. 

We could see the trail zig zagging up the mountainside. There was an option to veer off of the old jeep road and walk more directly but steeply up to the ridge, but we chose the longer but more mellow route. 

On the last switchback we ventured off the road and joined the hiker trail. The rocks were loose and the sand deep. It was much harder walking and we were glad we had chosen the route we had.

Once on the ridge we wound our way up and down more ridges, all providing incredible panoramic views of the beautiful landscape surrounding us. 

We kept expecting to turn the corner and see Highway 108 but that was not the case. We climbed up to the top of a ridge and dropped into a bowl and then climbed up again.

The terrain was arid. We walked amongst dark brown rocks below towering dark brown mountains. There were a few bushes and flowers but all in all the hills felt desolate.

Finally we turned a corner and saw Highway 108 below. Here again we circled our way down. It felt like we were circling a drain – traversing across the hillside each time before dropping down 30 feet in elevation. No option to glissade this time of year.

We got to Sonora Pass just before noon, crossed the highway and walked 0.1 mile to the trailhead parking area looking for Joanna (Laurie’s godmother) and Daniel (Laurie’s cousin).

They arrived 15 minutes later.

We sat in the shade on a picnic table and enjoyed a delicious lunch that Joanna had prepared – chicken apple sausage, nectarines, bok choy, roasted potatoes and sandwiches. It felt like heaven, sitting in the shade surrounded by food and family.

We talked, sorted through our resupply boxes and drove partway down Highway 108 to charge our phones and get service so Daniel could send off a work email.

Around 4 pm we all put on our packs and walked 1.1 miles up the trail to a tentsite. Daniel and Andy led the way with Joanna and Laurie bringing up the rear. Lacey, Joanna’s dog, ran back and forth between us, trying to keep track of everyone.

We set up our tent and the 2 person tent that Joanna, Daniel and Lacey were going to share. Lacey is a 10 year old border collie who has never been backpacking. It was very cute watching her sniff everything and just sit and stare at the trees for long periods of time.

The 4 of us ate a Thai dinner sitting in the 2 person tent. It was cozy but doable – 4 adults and 1 dog in the REI Quarter Dome 2 person tent. Go REI for making awesome tents! And thank you Joanna for bringing us Thai food yet again!

We watched as the sun set and the sky darkened. Eventually it was dark enough to see the Milky Way, Saturn, Mars and many many stars. We all took turns on Daniel’s stargazing app to correctly identify constellations.

It felt very special to share this moment together. Living in a city it is rare to see this many stars. They were truly remarkable.

Around 8:45 we all started yawning and went to our respective tents. We had put on the flies anticipating a cold night but it never seemed to drop below 40 degrees.

Tonight we are grateful for clear night skies and family backpacking excursions.

September 6, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 982.1) to bushcamp (mile 1006.9)

Miles: 24.8

Out total miles: 2365.6

We slept surprisingly warm through the night, which made it much easier to get up and start moving. At 6:00 when we opened the fly it was still dark out. 

We were walking by 6:30. We dropped down about 300 feet into Stubblefield Canyon. It was light enough to see without headlights but only the tips of the mountains around the canyon received the warmth of the sunlight.

We got water and continued on. For most of the morning the trail was flat. We cruised along, enjoying soft dirt and easy walking.

We walked through more beautiful meadows, past small creeks with cascading waterfalls ending in pools of clear cool water.

All morning we walked through valleys surrounded by granite domes. 

Laurie woke up with pain in her SI joint. As she walked it got more aggravated. We stopped on a rock and she tried stretching to alleviate some of the tightness. 

She leaned on her trekking pole, trying to use it for a trigger point release. All of this helped a little but the discomfort remained.

She hiked through the discomfort, distracting herself with podcasts. This issue has happened before and usually self corrects. We both hope her body fixes itself again this time. 

We got to Dorothy Lake around 1:30. It is a large beautiful lake with granite mountains on one side. We found a sandy beach and took a long relaxing break. 

We both rinsed off in the lake, Laurie washed her socks (wash is a generous word- she rubbed them together in the water to get rid of some of the dirt), we ate lunch and Laurie took a nap. Leaning against our backpacks, letting the sun warm our bodies felt glorious. 

This is the best part of backpacking – hiking many hours to get to unfamiliar, beautiful places and having the time to sit and soak up the beauty.

Finally around 3:00 we gathered our belongings and continued to hike along the northern aspect of Dorothy Lake toward Dorothy Lake Pass. 

At the top of the short climb we walked out of Yosemite National Park and into the Hoover Wilderness.

Immediately we felt a difference. The trail was more gentle and less rocky.

We saw less than 10 people today! Just like in major cities, if you travel far enough the crowds eventually thin out.

Laurie listened to podcasts to tune out the pain in her hip. She’s a trooper!

We’ve noticed that if we continue to push large mile days eventually our bodies start to protest. But, if we have experienced the pain before and know that it will go away, we tend to disregard it and just keep walking.

We descended past many small lakes, then gently climbed a few more miles to camp.

Once again we were treated to a glorious sunset. Orange and pink sky dominated the cloudless horizon. 

We never tire of beautiful sunsets. They are nectar for our souls.

Tonight we’re grateful for our body’s healing capabilities and glorious sunsets.

September 5, 2016

Miller Lake (mile 959.7) to bushcamp (mile 982.1)

Miles: 22.4

Our total miles: 2340.8

We were both glad we put on the rain fly. We woke up with frost on the tent and bear cans. Even with the fly Laurie whimpered as she got out of her sleeping bag. It is definitely Fall.

We were walking by 7am. The sun was out but had not yet hit our campsite or Miller Lake. The meadow next to the lake was dusted in white and there were ice crystals in the sand. 

Today was a day of hard ups and downs. The elevation gain and loss was no harder than what we faced in Washington but the trail was much more rocky. 

The rocks made for slow going as we navigated up big rock steps and down the steep granite cobblestone trail.

The climb up to Benson Pass was beautiful but unrelenting. We walked though green and yellow meadows, finally ending in a basin of granite and yellow grass. The marmots were the only other creatures we saw all morning.

We dropped down, climbed up and dropped down some more. The trail never seemed to take a direct route.

We spotted a family of deer, 2 adults and 3 little spotted ones. They are amazing creatures, turning their necks 180 degrees to watch us walk by. 

Laurie talked to them as we passed but the little ones were skittish. Everytime the trail took us close, they bounded off. It looked as if they had springs under each leg. We both wish we could run with such ease and grace.

We walked by mountains made out of granite. Their sheer walls shone in the evening light. Shadows and trees gave the granite ledges distinction and perspective.

The trail led us along Kerrick Creek. Where the trail crossed the creek we were astonished to see it dry. It is hard to believe that 3 months prior it was raging and taking people down with it!

We ran into 4 SOBOs and 5 older men within a span of 5 minutes. We hadn’t seen a soul all day and then all of a sudden it felt like social hour.

We climbed up and over our last little hill of the evening. We talked about camping up high, away from the river and meadow, in an attempt to stay warmer. 

We had just enough water to do so but also wanted to get as far as we could so as to make the following 2 days shorter.

We climbed up, looking for potential spots but with the agreement to stop only if the view was so epic we couldn’t pass it up. We didn’t find any said spots so we crested the hill and started down.

About 0.3 miles from the bottom of the canyon and creek, we spotted a fire ring and a few flat spots.

It was right around 7 pm and we were tired. We decided to call it for the night and went about setting up our home. 

By 9 pm we were fed, warm and sleepy. It never felt particularly cold and we hope it stays this way during the night.

Tonight we are grateful for solitude and a warm campsite.