May 31, 2016

Kearsarge Lakes to Kearsarge Pass Trailhead

Miles: 5.3 miles

It was a hard night. Our slanted spot seemed to get more slanted as the night progressed. Andy, whose sleeping bag is lined with Gortex slept well in one place. Laurie, who is sleeping in a silk liner inside a sleeping bag made of Pertex fabric, spent the whole night pulling herself up towards the head of the tent only to slide down moments later.

We slept without the fly to enjoy the views of the surrounding mountains. The clouds had parted and the temperature felt reasonable. It was nice to see the Milky Way and thousands of other stars while readjusting positions in the middle of the night.

The temperature dropped and Laurie woke up cold around 1am. Our sleeping bags were wet with condensation and the tent had frost on the outside. Andy wrapped Laurie and her sleeping bag in the emergency blanket. It warmed her immediately and allowed for another 4 hours of sleep.

Laurie got up at 5 to set up a time lapse of the sun’s reflection on the jagged snowy peaks above Kearsarge Lakes. She crawled back into her now warm sleeping bag and we talked until 6:30 am when Andy got up to make Matcha tea and hot chocolate.

We were eager to get into town but enjoyed the serenity and beauty of our camp spot.

Andy threw rocks into the semi frozen lake, fascinated with the traveling air bubbles they created. It was like he was 5 again, excited to see which rocks would penetrate the ice and create ripples.

Once the sun reached our tent we sprung into action. We were walking by 8:10am and reached Kearsarge Pass by 8:40am.

Initially the trail was covered by snow but as we neared the long and gently graded switchbacks our path was clear.

The view looking back from Kearsarge Pass towards frozen Bullfrog Lake and Kearsarge Lakes was specacular. The snow added immense depth and beauty to an already gorgeous area.

After a short break we headed down the trail towards Onion Valley Campground and Trailhead. The trail switchbacked through boulder fields, past gushing creeks and Indian Paintbush.

Much of the trail above 10,000 ft was covered by snow. Again we followed footsteps, checking our position from time to time. Sometimes we were right on the trail, other times we were 200 ft off of it.

Near the pass Laurie had reception and called what we thought was the Courthouse Motel in Independence. We had shipped our packages there and had planned to stay the night. After calling for a second time to organize a pickup from the trailhead we realized we had called the Mt. Williamson Motel instead.

We cursed the other hiker who had given us the wrong number.

Our packages were at the Courthouse motel but we would have to pay $50 for a ride from the trailhead.

Another motel would give us a ride but then we would have to pay $10 to pick up each of our 3 boxes. Oh conundrums of the real world!

After a bit of a discussion we decided to stay at the Mt Williamson Motel and we are so happy with our decision.

It is nice when mistakes turn into good fortune. Andy believes that even in odd and whacky ways we meet people we are supposed to meet.

Strider picked us up from Onion Valley Trailhead at noon and drove us to her motel, first making a pit stop for us to pick up our packages.

The property is quaint and has a lot of charm. But the rooms were the biggest surprise. Very clean, comfy beds and modern bathrooms with great water pressure in the shower!

We loved it. It’s the best place we’ve stayed on our trip thus far.

After we got settled, showered, and gave Strider our dirty laundry, we walked over to the Owens Valley Growers Coop for pizza. We had heard they make great pizza and had been talking about it since Lone Pine.

We even called from the trail to make sure they had gluten free pizza today, and they did!

It was a three block walk to the Coop and on the way we picked apricots from a tree next to the sidewalk.

They made for a great appetizer.

Our pizza was ready when we got there. A steaming, medium size, gluten free pizza with mozerella, grilled onions, basil and sautéed mushrooms. We ordered a salad to go with it.

They were delicious! And were devoured in 5 minutes!

We had planned on staying at the Coop to figure out the details of the next section of our hike but Laurie kept people watching. Other hikers there were very dramatic and distracting. We elected to get another pizza to go and work from the comforts of our bed.

On the way back we picked more apricots. It was really hot in Independence – around 90° with a heat wave coming the next few days.

We usually don’t like air conditioning but it felt good to sit in a cool room and relax.

Time really does fly when we’re in towns. Making plans for the next section, uploading photos to Instagram and posting on our blog take a lot of time. Not to mention the other chores – cleaning pots, checking credit card statements, catching up on email, and  checking in with family and friends.

By the time we uploaded a few blog posts it was 6pm. The Coop was closing at 6:30 for a special event so we hustled over there for more food. Laurie ordered another gluten free pizza while Andy ordered a turkey sandwich for dinner and a pizza to be shared for breakfast. We also bought coconut milk and chia seed pudding and a pint of coconut ice cream.

Hiker hunger must be kicking in.

After dinner we went back to town chores. It was 9pm when we finally turned our attention to our resupply boxes. By the time we sorted all the food and other items and packed our backpacks it was almost 11pm.

Laurie tried to blog a bit more but fell asleep shortly after. Andy stayed up until almost midnight reading blog posts from those ahead of us to get intel on trail conditions.

Our alarms are set for 5am tomorrow because Strider is taking us back to the trailhead at 6:30am.

It’s been a long, fulfilling, and delicious day. Tomorrow morning is going to come too soon.

Tonight we are grateful for gluten free pizza in small towns and air conditioning.

Turn up the volume and enjoy a few videos from the Sierras up to Kearsarge Pass.

If you are viewing this in your email, the videos may not show. Please open this post on our website to view them. 

May 30, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 775.7) to Kearsarge Lakes

Miles: 12.5 (10.7 PCT miles + 1.8 to Kearsarge Lakes)

We woke up at 3 am. There was a slight breeze rattling the rain fly. The light of the crescent moon illuminated the foot end of our tent.

We groggily opened our eyes. Laurie was the first to move. She peered out the rain fly and remarked excitedly, “Only one cloud and lots of stars, it’s go time!”

We packed our backpacks, took down the tent and were ready to go by 4 am. Right on time!

The stars were amazing! Normally we are asleep before the sky gets dark enough to see the Milky Way but this morning we were up early enough to enjoy its grandeur.

We didn’t know how long it would take us to get to the base of Forester Pass. We started early to ensure we walked on stable snow on the ascent and hard enough snow to avoid post holing on the descent.

We succeeded.

We reached the base of Forester Pass a little before 6 am with lots of breaks to take pictures, shed layers and take in the views. The snow was hard and easy to walk on. It felt like walking on hard sand. The snow crystals glistened under the light of our headlights. It was a magical morning!

We walked past 3 sleeping hikers (2 cowboy camping and the third in a tent) and started up Forester Pass.

Andy led and we followed tracks straight up. The snow was hard but sticky. We could see the switchbacks above us, heading straight up the rock wall. Right before the first visible switchback we sat down on some rocks to put on our crampons.

The snow had become a little more icy and the slope more steep so the extra traction was greatly appreciated.

Once with crampons, Laurie took off walking sideways up the slope to meet the other footprints. She is comfortable in the snow. Andy, however, was less comfortable and had trouble making his way out of the rocks and up to the switchback. With time and encouragement he did great.

We zigzagged our way up towards the infamous Forester Pass Chute. The first 4 switch backs were snowy, before transitioning to bare rocky trail. We didn’t want to stop to take off our crampons so we chose our steps with care to minimize scraping the teeth of the crampons on rocks.

After about 45 minutes we made it to the chute. This is a section of trail that is particularly exposed. Ned Tibbits, a mountain educator, comes out in early April to cut steps to help hikers safely cross the chute. Thanks to Ned and the many hikers ahead of us the chute had well defined steps.

We both crossed with ease.

All that worrying for nothing! (Laurie is the worry wort; Andy believed we would be fine).

We completed another 3 switchbacks and vertically climbed the last 10 ft to the top of one of the more difficult early season passes of the Sierras.

It was quite amazing to reach the Pass and peer over the snow to an expansive view of snow capped mountains and still frozen lakes.

We hung out at the top for about 30 minutes, taking pictures and celebrating our success.

And then we started down. Down, down, down to the valley below. Since everything was covered in snow we could choose our own path.

We followed the other footsteps down the ridge, sliding down on our bottoms when we could. Other times we ran, walked and even ended up on our bottoms by accident.

It was a long descent but much more fun in the still hard packed snow. We took a break on a large rock and the 3 people that were sleeping when we past them earlier this morning caught up to us. They were Sue, Reuben and Bernard! We thought we wouldn’t see them again, but the trail has a way of bringing people together.

They joined us on the rock and admitted they were running out of food and were heading to Independence today. We gave them our extra food and we all headed down the trail together.

We followed dirty footprints as the trail was hidden under the snow. We got way off trail numerous times but used the gps to reorient us back to the trailm

We crossed many steams, swollen by melting snow; rock hopped, log walked and gingerly walked across snow bridges hoping they would not break.

Around 11am, the sunlight reflecting off of the snow was intense. Laurie overheated, got quiet and grumpy. A short break in the shade helped revitalize her.

We stopped for lunch near Middle Vidette Meadow with Ruben, Sue and Bernard. They took off 20 minutes after we arrived, motivated to make it over Kearsarge Pass and get into town.

We lounged around and had a snow ball fight – started by Laurie throwing 3 snowballs at Andy and missing each time. Good thing she played soccer as a teenager!

We were tired but wanted to get a little further before calling it for the day. We climbed up towards the Bullfrog Lake junction.

One mile and 900 ft up.

No easy task for legs that had already hiked for 11 hours on snow!

We climbed up and up, stopping periodically to take pictures of the stunning views.

“This never gets old,” remarked Andy. “When people ask me what slowed us down in the Sierras, I’m gonna tell them it were the views, not the altitude.”

At the junction we headed east toward Kearsarge Pass. The trail was covered in snow so it took more time to find our path.

We hiked past a still frozen and quite stunning Bullfrog Lake towards Kearsarge Lakes. Once in the bowl beneath the pass we went off trail and onto snow towards one of the lakes.

We looked for level spots to put our tent but couldn’t find anything not on snow. We settled for a slanted spot near the lake.

Oh but what a spot this was.

Our view of the lake and Kearsarge Pinnacles were spectacular. Tonight we chose beauty over function.

We also watched hikers go up and down the switchbacks to the pass throughout the evening. Laurie was hoping that they were her friends visiting from Davis, but no such luck.

We ate dinner sitting outside watching the sun kiss the mountains around us.

“This might be my new favorite place in the Sierras” remarked Laurie.

Shocked, Andy asked, “What place topped your list before? ”

“Evolution Valley” said Laurie.

On this trip we get to rank them. What a treat!

We’re exhausted, humbled and need to rethink our Sierra strategy. We hiked 12.5 miles in 13 hours today. No way we’re gonna make it to Mammoth in 7 days.

We can accept that. It’s ok. Or at least, it’ll be ok.

Goodnight.

Tonight we are grateful for our intuition and morning light.