September 5, 2016

Miller Lake (mile 959.7) to bushcamp (mile 982.1)

Miles: 22.4

Our total miles: 2340.8

We were both glad we put on the rain fly. We woke up with frost on the tent and bear cans. Even with the fly Laurie whimpered as she got out of her sleeping bag. It is definitely Fall.

We were walking by 7am. The sun was out but had not yet hit our campsite or Miller Lake. The meadow next to the lake was dusted in white and there were ice crystals in the sand. 

Today was a day of hard ups and downs. The elevation gain and loss was no harder than what we faced in Washington but the trail was much more rocky. 

The rocks made for slow going as we navigated up big rock steps and down the steep granite cobblestone trail.

The climb up to Benson Pass was beautiful but unrelenting. We walked though green and yellow meadows, finally ending in a basin of granite and yellow grass. The marmots were the only other creatures we saw all morning.

We dropped down, climbed up and dropped down some more. The trail never seemed to take a direct route.

We spotted a family of deer, 2 adults and 3 little spotted ones. They are amazing creatures, turning their necks 180 degrees to watch us walk by. 

Laurie talked to them as we passed but the little ones were skittish. Everytime the trail took us close, they bounded off. It looked as if they had springs under each leg. We both wish we could run with such ease and grace.

We walked by mountains made out of granite. Their sheer walls shone in the evening light. Shadows and trees gave the granite ledges distinction and perspective.

The trail led us along Kerrick Creek. Where the trail crossed the creek we were astonished to see it dry. It is hard to believe that 3 months prior it was raging and taking people down with it!

We ran into 4 SOBOs and 5 older men within a span of 5 minutes. We hadn’t seen a soul all day and then all of a sudden it felt like social hour.

We climbed up and over our last little hill of the evening. We talked about camping up high, away from the river and meadow, in an attempt to stay warmer. 

We had just enough water to do so but also wanted to get as far as we could so as to make the following 2 days shorter.

We climbed up, looking for potential spots but with the agreement to stop only if the view was so epic we couldn’t pass it up. We didn’t find any said spots so we crested the hill and started down.

About 0.3 miles from the bottom of the canyon and creek, we spotted a fire ring and a few flat spots.

It was right around 7 pm and we were tired. We decided to call it for the night and went about setting up our home. 

By 9 pm we were fed, warm and sleepy. It never felt particularly cold and we hope it stays this way during the night.

Tonight we are grateful for solitude and a warm campsite.

September 4, 2016

Tuolumne Meadows (mile 941.7) to Miller Lake (mile 959.7)

Miles: 18

Our total miles: 2318.4

When we woke up it was still dark. We had agreed to aim to leave at 6:30am to beat the crowds in Yosemite. 

We were on the road by 6:45 and watched the golden morning sunlight spread across the high desert plains around Mono Lake. 

We found a parking spot at the Lembert Dome/Glen Aulin trailhead and sat in the RV eating breakfast. It was cold outside, the car temperature gauge read 37 degrees, and it was much more comfortable eating inside the cozy van than outside. We take advantage of these comforts when we have access to them.

Our socks weren’t fully dry from yesterday’s washing so we draped them over our backpacks in the sun while we ate.

Laurie’s socks were still damp when we walked out of the parking lot at 9 am. There was a chill in the air and Laurie placed Andy’s fleece around her arms and chest.

We stopped at Soda Springs and watched the carbonated water bubble out of the ground. Sue pointed out where she had camped as a child, back before Yosemite required permits for backpacking.

The trail was flat initially. We walked through dusty sand, following the horse prints toward Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp.

Neither of us have hiked north of Tuolumne Meadows and were excited to see new terrain. 

We walked past large slabs of granite, meandering streams over granite or sandy banks and large yellow meadows. It is beginning to look like fall.

We walked on rocks assembled like cobblestones and used our poles to keep from slipping.

We crossed beautiful bridges and stopped for lunch at Tuolumne Falls. We hugged goodbye with Sue, grateful that we will see each other again in less than a month.

We continued on toward Glen Aulin camp and Sue returned to her van.

The trail dropped down to a river which we crossed via a large steel bridge. The water below us cut through the slabs of granite and fell off into the valley below. 

The trail gradually gained in elevation as we walked through a quiet forest. Clouds of dust were generated by Laurie’s steps and Andy patiently walked through them all afternoon.

We strolled through large meadows and met a number of hikers, including Cakes whom we first met outside of Chester, then again at Timberline Lodge and now going southbound to finish her hike. It is fun to see familiar faces and smiles.

We ascended our final climb up to Miller Lake. Laurie was feeling sluggish most of the day but once plugged into an episode of a ‘Dear Sugar’ podcast she steadily climbed to our destination. 

We set up our tent on a little dome above the lake to avoid condensation and to enjoy every last bit of sunshine.

We went to the lake with the intention of cleaning off but the sun dipped behind the horizon and it got cold immediately. 

Laurie sat on a log picking out dried cherries from our trail mix and talking with another hiker as Andy got water.

We retreated back to our tent, which still had sunlight, and went about our nightly routine.

It was cold by the time we got out of the tent to brush our teeth at 8:15pm. Laurie ambivalently requested we put on the fly. 

We both love seeing the stars, but the nights have been cold lately. We stay warm in our 20 degree bags with silk liners and hats but lately Laurie also sleeps in her fleece. We figured we should put up the fly and sleep warmer. 

Tonight we are grateful for the warmth of the sun and hard boiled eggs for breakfast.

September 3, 2016

Lyell Fork (mile 931.3) to Tuolumne Meadows  (mile 941.7)

Miles: 10.4

Our total miles: 2300.4

Dawn breaks later as autumn draws nearer, making it that much harder to wake up every morning.

Perhaps that’s just an excuse. Our bodies are tired and it’s hard to motivate to get up before 6am.

We’re tired but that’s just an excuse too. Getting up early is a mental challenge. If we had to hike 23 – 27 miles you bet we’d wake up early. But as of late we’ve been hiking less than 20 miles per day.

Today was no different. Although we were meeting Laurie’s mom Sue at Tuolumne Meadows, we weren’t in a rush because we told her we’d be there between 10 and 11am.

The morning air was cool but not very cold. As we descended into Lyell Canyon however, it got colder. 

Cool air settles into this beautiful meadow and it can be downright bone chilling cold.

We passed many hikers camped in various places along Lyell Canyon as we descended the rocky steps and dusty trail.

No matter how many times we visit this place, the beauty never ceases.

Belding ground squirells darted in and out of their holes as we walked by. We stopped and smiled as one stuck it’s head out, saw us and retreated inside. These little rodents were so cute!

Just after 10am we recognized a woman with curly hair wearing a blue jacket standing next to the trail. It was Sue!

Laurie loves bumping into her mama on the trail. It brings a smile to both of their faces. 

The three of us walked almost 5 miles to a beautiful meadow where the Lyell Fork once again intersects the trail. This is one of Laurie’s favorite places. In fact, she has talked about wanting to get married there! 

As we soaked our feet in the cold water we noticed dark clouds gathered above. There have been signs of a low pressure system approaching the last few days (Andy’s had his eye on the clouds) but there was no rain in the forecast.

We laced up our shoes and braced ourselves for what was to come. Labor Day weekend is probably the busiest weekend for many places – including Yosemite. 

Tuolumne Meadows and the few miles of the JMT near it were busy with day hikers, backpackers and people out to get a moment of fresh air.

In the parking lot Andy felt like he was back in college. Whenever someone came off the trail motorists asked them if they were leaving in hopes of snagging a spot.

Needless to say we got outta there quickly.

Sue had secured a campsite near Virginia Lakes 20 minutes north of Yosemite. But before we went there we stopped at the Mobil gas station in Lee Vining to meet with Laurie’s friend Colleen, eat and do laundry.

Colleen was in Lee Vining on her way to Mammoth for a 3 day backpacking trip. We hadn’t planned it but happened to be in the same area at the same time. 

We really couldn’t have planned it any better! Colleen is a very sweet, thoughtful and generous person. It was nice catching up over lunch.

After saying goodbye we drove to the campground. Sue and Laurie went for a ‘short hike’ which turned into a 2.5 hour adventure. 

In the meantime Andy got to relax at camp, set up home, do his resupply, listen to music and chat with people camped nearby. 

After the sun set behind the jagged peaks it got cold. We all piled into Sue’s van, drank hot water and ate dinner. The packaged saag paneer with chicken was good but we were both looking forward to the salad.

Salad!!

Oh how we miss the taste (and crunch) of fresh greens with avocado, sprouts and other veggies.

After dinner we relaxed, looked at maps and drank more hot water.

We were in bed before 10pm, determined to leave camp by 6:30 the next morning to get to Yosemite early enough to get a parking spot at the trailhead.

It’s going to be cold tonight, especially without the fly on, but we’ll be cozy because we are sleeping in cotton tshirts and sweatshirts. Oh the luxury! 

Tonight we are grateful for impromptu rendezvous with good friends and time with family.