Iceland – Day 1 – Double Rainbows and a Costco!

October 15, 2018

Keflavik (Reykjavik Int’l Airport) to Laugarvatn

Three weeks ago we decided to take our honeymoon in Iceland. We had planned on going to New Zealand in February but things have changed since.

So we bought 2 round trip tickets to Iceland on Wow Air for $500 total(!) flying nonstop from SFO to Reykjavik.

October is the shoulder season for tourism in Iceland, meaning there should be a slight dip in the number of tourists between the busy summer and winter months.

There is potential to see the northern lights and with less visitors ideally less company at many of the country’s many waterfalls.

With likely varied weather conditions (rain, sleet, sun and lots of wind) we didn’t plan much other than our first night’s destination. We wanted to be flexible to adapt to the weather.

This produced some anxiety for Laurie who is used to traveling with a set itinerary. But life is presenting many opportunities to work very hard on letting things unfold rather than trying to control it all.

Our flight was uneventful.

You had to pay for everything on WOW Air – blanket, pillow, water and no movies at all… but the seats were relatively comfy, had a lot of leg room and came with outlets. The 8 hour flight wasn’t horrible, however they never turned off the cabin lights. Next time we would bring face masks to be able to sleep!!

We snoozed and repositioned often – never sleeping more than 30 minutes at a time. We arrived in Iceland at 10:30am puffy eyed and delirious but excited.

We waited about 20 minutes for our shuttle to arrive and take us to our budget rental car off-site lot. We felt a little ashamed to be such typical impatient Americans but Andy had read that some of the local, smaller companies can drop the ball and people have been known to wait for over an hour for a ride. He wasn’t going to let that happen. So he called and they arrived 10 minutes later.

The first stop we made after picking up our Renault Cleo was to Costco.

Yup, Costco has a location in Iceland! Not having our Costco card with us we woke up Laurie’s godmother at 6am west coast time to read the number to us. And like that we were in!

We both like to save money where we can. We don’t eat out much and we don’t stay at fancy hotels, but we are okay spending $7 on blueberries. We stocked up on fresh foods (we had already packed freeze dried dinners, bars and snacks because we had heard that food is incredibly expensive in Iceland) and hit the road.

It was fun shopping at Costco in a foreign country. Some items were familiar (blueberries from Salinas, apples from Chile) but some things were not (peanuts referred to as monkey nuts).

We don’t know if this is what peanuts are called in other parts of the world too but we found it hilarious.

Iceland has a slower pace. Andy enjoys this. Even the automatic doors at gas stations and grocery stores open slowly. We both found ourselves prematurely trying to enter the supermarket “Bonus,” and giggled as we halted to let the doors open at their relaxed speed. The logo for “Bonus” is a pink piggy bank. It’s pretty cute.

We hit the road once more and were set to drive an hour to the small town of Laugarvatn where we had booked a room at a hostel.

But we were so tired. Andy pulled off the highway at a local park and we took 90 minute naps in the car.

Feeling somewhat human again after we woke up, we drove through Bláskógabyggð and Þingvellir National Park, Iceland’s first National Park. The landscape was stunning!

Volcanic, rugged and wild. Green moss covered mounds of dirt and volcanic earth. The clouds obscured the tops of mountains but we could see snow resting in the valleys. We “oohed and aahed” at the rainbows, the most vibrant and complete rainbows we have ever seen. We even saw a full double rainbow. It was incredible.

We stopped every 10 minutes to soak it all in and take pictures.

After driving through the park we made our final stop at a gas station next to our hostel. We needed fuel for our Jetboil and a lighter.

We easily got what we needed, drove to the hostel and checked in. We were both impressed how clean and cute the hostel was.

And we thought we had booked a room with a shared bath but we had a private one. We’ll take it!

We made dinner in the communal kitchen while chatting with a family from Switzerland.

Andy amazed them with tales of great hiking in their backyard that they had no idea was there. He got a kick out of this.

After dinner we joined the family in the dining hall to make a plan for the next two days.

Switzerland was playing Iceland in a soccer match and we enjoyed the distraction of animated kids as the game unfolded.

We are cozy in our twin beds listening to the rain batter the windows. Only one day in and already Iceland has captured our hearts.

Tonight we are grateful for patches of sunshine and double rainbows.

PCT Food Review Part 4 – Dinner

Food is the primary topic on trail. And dinners are a major piece of that pie – no pun intended.

For many thru hikers dinner is the most substantial meal of each day.  And this causes much anxiety for people, especially those with dietary restrictions.

homemade dinners

Vacuum sealed and ready to be packed

If you aren’t a fussy eater and have no dietary restrictions you can buy food as you go. Furthermore, you can ship yourself food to smaller towns further up the trail from a bigger town with more options. This way you can accommodate your changing taste buds and physical requirements.

But for hikers like us (Laurie is gluten free and Andy insists on eating minimally processed foods with quality ingredients), resupplying in small towns is very challenging. Most packaged foods include gluten and those that don’t are usually laden with additives, preservatives and other nasties.

Given these confines, we chose to ship all of our food to ourselves. Actually, we packed the boxes and Andy’s dad graciously shipped them. Thanks Greg!

resupply boxes - all 64 of them

resupply boxes – all 64 of them

As a reminder, we actively sought out sponsors for our hike to help offset the higher cost of quality foods. Every company below with an * next to their name either gave us free food or a discount. While we remain grateful to these companies, their generosity has not influenced our comments.

Happy Hour

Somewhere in the Sierra Laurie came up with the idea of happy hour. We usually stopped around 4pm for a 20 to 30 minute break and bit into huge chunks of cheese (sometimes with Luke’s or other types of crackers).

Cheese and views = happy thru hiker

Cheese and views = happy thru hiker

Cheese, like trail mix, is heavy but nutritious and delicious. We loved having cheese and would definitely carry it again! You can’t weigh happiness can you? 🙂

Andy’s parents vacuum sealed Dubliner, Asiago or Parmesan cheese the day they shipped our resupply boxes. Often times the cheese was melted by the time we picked them up, but not spoiled. To preserve the cheese for that section we wrapped it in cheese cloth to absorb the excess oils. This worked perfectly! No spoilage, minimal mess.

Cheese before sunrise. Oh yeah!

Cheese before sunrise. Oh yeah!

Appetizers

If weather didn’t permit or we had miles to cover and skipped happy hour, we enjoyed cheese with crackers after setting up our tent.

Other times Andy boiled water and we sipped miso soup. Edward & Sons Miso Cup* is fantastic. We loved it.

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Some hikers gave us weird looks when we offered them miso soup, questioning why we would carry something with such few calories. But we didn’t care. We carried it and thoroughly enjoyed it because we liked it. It was soothing on cold evenings and tasted delicious. That’s what really matters to us.

Dinners

Some weight conscious thru hikers forgo the stove. They either cold soak everything or live off of tuna and tortillas. We value a warm meal at the end of a long day, so we carried a stove and ate dinners we had made in advance, dehydrated, vacuum sealed and shipped to ourselves.

Andy’s mom graciously helped with the preparation. We cooked and dehydrated about 50 meals and Andy’s mom made over 300!

Andy’s mom made:

  • lentils and rice with veggies
  • quinoa and veggies
  • beans with veggies
  • potatoes with butter and herbs
  • buckwheat with veggies
dehydrated dinners

dehydrated dinners courtesy of Andy’s mom

We made:

  • gluten free pasta with ground bison meat
  • kitchari
  • veggies stew
  • pinto beans with veggies

We also put together meals from bulk bins at our local natural food store:

Ramen - Andy & Laurie style

Ramen – Andy & Laurie style

As a special treat, from time to time Laurie enjoyed her favorite dinner of all time – mac & cheese. We added spinach or kale powder to some of our meals for more greens and taste.

mac & cheese = one very happy Laurie

mac & cheese = one very happy Laurie

While we thought we had a good variety of dinners, Laurie quickly grew tired of the meals that Andy’s mom had made. Anticipating we would be craving salt on trail, we asked her to make them salty. Unfortunately, they were too salty for Laurie (we didn’t know this was even possible). And with similar spices they all started to taste the same to her.

To help make them palatable we either diluted the meals with Idahoan potatoes Laurie scored from hiker boxes or added Bob’s Red Mill dehydrated potatoes to our resupply boxes.

Andy, on the other hand, loved his mom’s dinners and found that over the course of the hike, some of the dinners he didn’t enjoy as much in the beginning became his favorites.

Dinner with a view

Dinner with a view

The takeaway here is that our taste buds changed on the trail – from week to week sometimes. Variety is key! If you think you have enough variety, include some more options – especially if you sort and pack all your food before you begin your hike like we did.

And if you live locally and are interested in trying some of our meals, we have some extra that we would be happy to share! Contact us if you’re interested.

(Additionally, we are interested in starting a backpacking food company with simple, nutritious and additive free meals. Please stay tuned for more information.)

To read our first food review post that covers breakfast click here, the second post reviewing mid morning snacks and lunches is here, and the third post reviewing snacks is here.

Affiliate Disclosure
This website contains affiliate links, which means we may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in this article. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support our ongoing efforts to bring you honest, no holds barred trip reports and advice. Thanks for your support!

PCT Food Review Part 2 – Mid Morning Snacks and Lunches

In our last post we reviewed our breakfast strategy and bars. In this post we dive into our mid-morning snacks, mid-morning drinks and lunch.

As a reminder, we actively sought out sponsors for our hike to help offset the higher cost of quality foods. Every company below with an * next to their name either gave us free food or a discount. While we remain grateful to these companies, their generosity has not influenced our comments.

Mid-morning snacks

Because 1 – 2 bars around 6am can only sustain a hiker for a little while, we usually stopped for a snack break around 10 am. Sometimes we ate cold oatmeal (soaked in advance to save time), other times we boiled water for hot oatmeal and once in a while we shoved handfuls of granola into our mouths.

GlutenFreeda instant oatsGlutenFreeda’s gluten free oatmeal* isn’t as sweet as most individually wrapped oatmeal packets on the market and were both hearty and flavorful. We appreciated the ease of individual servings which pack better into a bear can than a large ziplock filled with oatmeal.

Our favorite flavors were Apple Cinnamon with Flax, Banana Maple with Flax and Maple Raisin with Flax. GlutenFreeda instant oatmeal is especially good for people who are looking for certified gluten free oatmeal.

We had some bulk gluten free granola from Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco but most of our granola came from 18 Rabbits*. They have added more flavors to their lineup in recent months – all of which are all delicious! Our two favorites on trail were 1) Cherry, Chia and Vanilla and 2) Walnut, Flax and Cacao Nib.

18 Rabbits Granola18 Rabbits granola are not too sweet but sweet enough to make you want more. We discovered that while calorie rich and delicious, granola in general is very heavy. Often times we would eat this as a dessert the first night out of town to cut down on weight.

Mid-morning drinks

DoMatcha Matcha Green TeaWhen we didn’t have oatmeal but still wanted to stop and drink something warm, Laurie enjoyed hot chocolate and Andy drank DōMatcha Green Tea*.

Laurie LOVES hot chocolate almost as much as mac & cheese so this was always a nice treat for her. Sometimes she would make it a double and sit cooing about how wonderful life was.

Andy enjoyed his green tea, but not with the same enthusiasm as Laurie with her hot chocolate. He added coconut milk powder to his tea for extra flavor and calories. He enjoyed it very much until we encountered the heat of Northern California. The coconut milk fat leaked out of the little zip lock bags and covered his food bag and all its contents with grease. No Bueno.

Lunches

For lunch we had:

Luke's CrackersWe especially liked Luke’s Crackers* for their taste and crunch when having tuna, salami or cheese. They have the right amount of salt and taste more like a chip than a cracker.

We looked forward to and got very excited when we found these crackers in our resupply boxes even if they were all crumbs!

Prather ranchOur favorite meat products by a country mile were the Prather Ranch Landjager and Beef Candy. We absolutely LOVED them! No matter where we hike next, we will be taking them with us.

The Landjager is a delicious German style meat stick that comes in a pack of 3. Andy usually devoured them in less than a minute while Laurie (trail name Saver for the first 1,000 miles of our hike) would save at least one stick to have with dinner. And she says she has no self control..

Prather Ranch Beef CandyThe Beef Candy is moist, sweet (but not overly so), savory and very tender. Beef Candy was the hardest thing for us to share on the trail. We both loved them very much and knew the other loved them too. And since we love each other we did share them – some of the time.

Prather Ranch also makes a Hot Beef Candy if you prefer a spicier beef jerky. Andy liked it and found it to be mildly spicy. As he put it, “It had just the right amount of kick.”

TankaTanka Power Packs – Initially these were great. They are hearty 4oz servings of buffalo meat in a vacuumed sealed bag. We liked the Orange Peel flavor best. The Slow Smoked Original and Spicy Pepper flavors have wild rice in them which offer a rather odd crunch, not to mention that they gets stuck in your teeth. But these were minor details once we got used to them.  (You can only purchase these direct from their website here. Other Tanka products are available on amazon and other retailers.)

The wonderful thing about Tanka is that these power packs provided variety to our diet filled with sweet bars. Laurie appreciated their meaty taste up through the Sierra, at which time she got tired of them (and Andy got tired of them by Oregon). Again, this may have been due to the fact that we didn’t have enough variety and burned ourselves out too quickly. Having said that, in Washington Andy started liking them again – especially the Orange Peel flavor.

liverbitesEpic bars – Similar to Tanka bars, these provided a nice variety to our sweet bar selection. Due to our late order of these bars, we didn’t start getting them in our boxes until Oregon and by that time we were wildly excited for something new and different.

We appreciated the variety of flavors and found Wild Boar to be our favorite. The Venison and Pulled Pork were too salty. Andy loved their Beef Liver Jerky too but Laurie could only handle 1-2 pieces max.

That’s it for this post, the next post will cover dinner and snacks. Stay tuned!

Affiliate Disclosure
This website contains affiliate links, which means we may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in this article. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support our ongoing efforts to bring you honest, no holds barred trip reports and advice. Thanks for your support!