Our friend Jeanie, with her daughter Arya, and Jeanie’s friend Nancy arrived in Anchorage on Saturday afternoon with plans to spend a week together in the Seward area. With 3 kids under the age of 5, areas with no cell service and 3 different nap schedules, it proved to be difficult to plan outings.

We made a plan to meet up Sunday afternoon. This would allow them time to settle in and for us to avoid rushing as much as possible. Rushing often equates to Andy and Laurie getting frustrated at one another and eventually having less patience for our kiddos.

Sunday morning we went on a nice hike up to Carter lake. Laurie read the trail description (3.7 miles RT) but unconsciously rounded down when she relayed the info to Andy. This infuriated Andy midway up the trail as he firmly believes 2 miles round trip is an ideal distance to hike with both kids, 2.5 is doable and 3 miles is pushing it. Typically, if we hike longer, both kids’ naps are affected, the hike takes longer than planned (only a surprise to Laurie when this happens) and everything gets delayed, including bed time.

Thankfully both kids took naps while being carried up the trail today. After climbing up the steep and muddy trail we were greeted by a lake and lush meadows with speckles of purple flowers in a basin of green. Ani discovered the joys of wild blueberries and for the first time we heard her say the word “more” when asking for more blueberries as we hiked.

We dipped our feet in the lake while eating lunch and then both kids hiked a bit before heading down to the RV.

Our hike turned into a whole day affair (shocking right?) and we were over an hour late to meet our friends for dinner. With no way of communicating we would be late, they headed out for an evening walk. With help of the resort owner we got on wifi and received messages along with the door code to their cabin. We made dinner in their cabin while waiting for their return. Laurie felt like Goldilocks, eating and relaxing in someone else’s home.

Sunday night we found a lovely level spot at a trailhead about 10 minutes down the road with promises of a 1.4 mile hike to a lake and blueberries!

Monday morning we woke to low hanging clouds that gradually lifted over the course of the morning. We ventured up toward Meridian and Grayling lakes. The trail was beautiful! Bright green moss carpeted the lush forest floor with bright speckles of color from a variety of mushrooms. The trail was well maintained with wooden planks and boardwalks over excessively wet areas. Ani slept while Miles walked in search of blueberries (the wet summer is making for a poor blueberry season down in Seward) and sticks for the fire that evening.

We met up with Jeanie, Arya and Nancy around 5 pm and made a feast of our freshly caught salmon, potatoes, veggies and salad. Andy and Miles made a fire to keep the mozzies away, cook the salmon and for s’mores.

We returned to the same trailhead to sleep. It was nice knowing there was a level spot waiting for us.

Still with no service, we made a plan to meet at our campsite in the morning. The kids were up around 9 with the excitement of seeing the 10:35 train pass by a tenth of a mile from the parking lot. We put a penny on the track and Miles was excited to note it grew and got smoother from the weight of the train.

Our friends pulled up around 11 while Ani and Miles dug in the gravel with their construction toys. Moments like this remind us what makes days successful – plans that often change and lots of unstructured time for free play.

With a few hours to spare, we went to an RV park to dump and fill knowing we would only have access to electrical hookups for a few days. Andy has done great learning on the go and problem solving all things RV as issues arise. Unfortunately, this dump became a literal shit show as the hose moved out of the sewer hole. Andy was frustrated and embarrassed. Luckily there was a playground at the RV park so Laurie kept the kids occupied and distracted while Andy borrowed a shovel and cleaned everything up.

That afternoon we had an experience of a lifetime – a chance to feed and touch a giant pacific octopus at the Sea Life Center in Seward. They are amazing creatures and their suction cups are incredibly strong. One inch diameter suction cups can hold up to 30 lbs! After our private backstage tour we wandered around the aquarium watching the sea lions, fish, harbor seals and puffins. Ani slept on Andy and Miles was most interested in driving the mock fishing boat. It was super windy near the water but we took some time to throw Miles’ toy airplane and soak up the sunshine with mountains and glaciers in the distance.

That evening we had another communal dinner before parting ways to put the kids to sleep. Jeanie, Nancy and Arya were staying in a yurt and we parked our RV on the same property with an electrical hookup. We ended up cooking dinner in the yurt each night but it was nice to have a way to charge the sound machine and phones.

That evening while Laurie and Jeanie were chatting after the kiddos went to sleep, they saw a mama and baby moose walk through our campsite. Seeing large wildlife never gets old!

Wednesday started off cloudy and gloomy but by early afternoon the sun was out. We spent most of the day at Exit Glacier. We walked about 0.5 miles to the glacier moraine and the kids had a great time playing with the rocks, sand and water. It was nice watching Ani navigate the uneven terrain with her still new-ish walking legs and Miles got very creative building roads through the sand. Arya and Jeanie played with us for a bit before returning to the trailhead to meet Nancy. Laurie walked around a bit more to give Ani a chance to sleep while Andy and Miles ran around the parking lot checking out adventure rigs.

Much of the areas we have explored in this beautiful state have been easy to navigate with an RV. Since many tourists rent RVs, there are designated RV parking spots at National and State parks. Driving around Anchorage was a bit more tricky but Andy maneuvered the beast well. Laurie has driven a few times but only on long open and straight roads.

That night and most of the following day it poured. We had a lazy day. Miles and Laurie colored and read books while Andy and Ani napped. We got take out Thai food and did laundry at a laundromat.

The following morning we parted ways with our friends as Nancy was flying home the following morning and Matt (Jeanie’s fiancé) was arriving. We did a nice 1 mile loop around a public park in Seward before getting in the RV to drive back toward Anchorage. Initially Miles did not want to hike but once engaged in a game of tag, he readily ran through the lush wet forest. Ani too, hiked along. Unphased by the many roots across the trail, she stumbled along, occasionally asking for our hand for support.

With no time constraints we decided to spend 1 more night off the grid. We pulled into the Johnson Pass North trailhead and found a decent spot that was off the road and on gravel (not dirt) in case the flood warnings came to fruition.

As we leveled the RV the rain stopped. We grabbed our bikes and went for a short 20 min ride down the bike path. It felt good to stretch our legs and breathe in the fresh air but the path paralleled the highway and the noise from the cars was too much for Andy’s sensitive ears. Ani wants to be involved (often bringing each of us our helmets) but once on the bike she cries. With the turning weather and noise, the ride didn’t last long.

That evening and night it POURED! In the morning we discovered a huge puddle near the kitchen window. The water seemed to be coming in from behind the microwave, and while we didn’t see any holes or a break in the caulk around an external vent, we hoped that was the location of the leak. We reinforced the seal with Flex Seal tape (with Laurie sitting on Andy’s shoulders to get extra height) and so far it has been working to keep water out.

Once back in Anchorage we did our usual town chores – shop, empty and fill the tanks. We had dinner with Matt, Arya and Jeanie at their Airbnb while making plans for the next day.

Rain was in the forecast for the remainder of our trip. We hoped for some grey days and not continuous downpours but we would have to wait and see.

Sunday morning, despite Laurie and Andy waking up early, we still didn’t manage to leave the RV park until 10:30. The plan was to ride the 22 mile coastal bike trail. Jeanie and Matt rented bikes and a Burley downtown and we met them a few miles along the trail. Since Ani doesn’t love riding on the back of a bike, the sky was dark and threatening to rain AND it was her nap time, Andy opted to stay with her at a park while Miles and Laurie rode. While Miles enjoys and is a good little bike rider, he would’ve be able to ride that far. Instead he sat in the kid seat and Laurie rode. It turned into a great day. It was nice to have some 1:1 parent/kiddo time and we needed some time apart.

The people at the bike shop promised Jeanie she would see a moose. We kept looking but made it to the end of the trail with no spottings. Laurie could tell everyone was a little bummed.

It rained on and off as we rode. We took breaks to eat snacks, run around and read some of the informational signs. The trail was beautiful! It wound through the forest offering glimpses of the bay. As we neared the airport, planes flew very low overhead- which excited both Miles and Arya.

On the way back, as we coasted down a wet hill, we encountered a group of people. This, like in Africa on safaris, typically means there is an animal sighting. There about 150 ft from the trail was a male moose. We found the elusive promised moose! Unfortunately all we could see from the trail was a huge rack and wiggling ears. After watching for about 10 minutes hoping he would stand, we continued on our way.

Another 3 miles down the path we encountered a female moose, this one was ON the bike path. She slowly made her way off to one side, munching on greenery. We slowly rode by, one at a time. You could tell who was a local and who was a tourist by the amount of attention each passing individual offered to the large animal.

That afternoon we tried to take advantage of a break in the rain to let the kids run. Anchorage has amazing and plentiful parks and playgrounds. As we opened the RV door at the playgriund we discovered we were missing one of Miles’ shoes. It had likely fallen out when we climbed in after our bike ride. Oops!! After an hour plus of giggles and playing on the slides, Andy and Miles drove back in search of the shoe while Laurie walked around to give Ani a late afternoon nap.

With our late wake ups, sometimes as late as 9:30 am, her nap schedule is all out of whack. And at 16 months she is in the gray zone of 1 vs 2 naps. She tends to be a light sleeper who rarely sleeps longer than 45 minutes unless held so we hope to stick with the 2 naps as long as possible to maximize her daytime sleep. Sometimes that works, other times it doesn’t.

Andy found the shoe kindly placed on a short fence 3 ft from where we had parked. In the meantime, Jeanie has graciously gotten us a backup pair at a thrift store. Now we will be prepared if this happens again (which is pretty likely given our pile of shoes on the 2 step entryway to the RV).

We joined Jeanie, Matt and Arya for dinner at their Airbnb, making plans to meet up in the morning (if timing and weather permitted) or in a few days in Denali National Park.

As we pull into the RV park the first night we feel a sense of shock and embarrassment. What have we turned into? Seven years ago we backpacked for 6 months along the spine of the western U.S. and now we drive a house on wheels. What has happened to us? Oh yes, kids….

We left Anchorage around 11 am and stopped after an hour for lunch and to stretch our legs. With our tight timeline between purchasing the RV and leaving Oakland we never had a chance to test the systems. Neither kid had ridden in the RV and Laurie had only sat in the passenger seat for 30 minutes. This Alaskan adventure would be our trial run.

We drove a total of 2.5 hours to Talkeetna Camper Park. We are now in a gravel lot with a bunch of other RVs and vans. We are 100 yds from the train depot which is loud but also a great distraction.

As we attempt to settle in we fell into our usual routine, Laurie makes home while Andy sets up the exterior of the vehicle. Joanna plays with both kids and we all enjoy listening to the rain.

So far, on night one of staying in the RV as a family, the reviews are mixed. It still feels small when both kids are whining and hovering at our legs when we are trying to cook, however it feels comfy when everyone is settled. The sound of the rain is lovely and MUCH quieter than our truck camper.

The shower is a lovely feature! But there are a few downsides. Rain will come through the netting if the windows are left open (which to be honest happened in our truck camper too), all the silverware and most of the drawers on the passenger side are caked in dust, the exterior water hose connection leaks and the kitchen sink leaks too. Perhaps this is our introduction to home ownership (:

But there are huge upside too. Both kids enjoyed their “bath” in the shower, Ani sat in her high chair and fed herself (for a few minutes), both kids ate frozen pancakes (thank you freezer!), we got to cook inside to avoid the mozzies, and we are now sleeping in almost darkness even though it is light out at 10pm. The pros outweigh the cons but traveling with kids is still exhausting, no matter the rig.

Despite sleeping next to the train tracks, we all slept reasonably well. Miles and Andy slept on the upper bed above the cab, Laurie slept on the couch/seating for the left dinette, next to Ani who was in her pack n play, and Joanna in the lower bunk in the back. Ani continued to wake up every 2-3 hours but her crying seemed tame and she quickly fell back asleep after a short nursing session.

This morning things felt lighter. Miles got engaged in helping Andy do RV chores and earned his “daddy helper award” which he proudly wore for a few hours. Joanna was our navigator, reading the Alaska Milepost for what attractions lay ahead. For the first time in over a week, things felt easy. It was a welcomed relief.

We spent the next 3 nights camping in Denali National Park at Savage River Campground. Our spot was nice, but as with all other campgrounds, the smell of campfire was pervasive. The first few days we could also smell smoke from the fires up north but with the daily dose of rain it was never too bad.

Wednesday we attempted to ride the shuttle bus to the visitor center only to learn that kids must ride in car seats. This infuriated Laurie as it made it so much harder to hike and travel anywhere in the park. After much grumbling we piled into the RV and drove 40 minutes down to the visitor center. It was annoying having to drive when there was a shuttle bus doing the exact same route but we didn’t want to lug our car seats around with us.

Once at the bus depot near the visitor center we purchased tickets for the “on again, off again” bus through the park for the following morning. We planned to borrow car seats from the visitor center since, if we hiked, we would stash them by the road and we didn’t want the elements to damage ours. Turns out the car seats they loan out expired in 2007. On the plus side they were much lighter and easier to carry.

After lunch in the bus depot parking lot staring at all the other adventure rigs, we drove past our campsite to where the road ends for private vehicles – Savage River Ranger Station (unless one has reservations at a campground further up the road). This was a whopping 2 miles past our campground but for us, only accessible by foot or with our RV (I guess the frustration at the park rules hasn’t worn off!)

As we crossed over a small river we noticed 2 cars stopped and there, getting a drink was a moose! We stopped and watched it for a few minutes, the kids were disinterested but Joanna was thrilled. She kept hoping to see a moose and we finally did!

At the Savage River Ranger Station it rained a bit and we all took naps in the RV. It is nice to have our beds wherever we go! Despite the noise, the cumbersome driving and the leaks, the RV is convenient.

Around 5 pm we went on a little evening walk alongside Savage River. The light was beautiful as the sun peered through the clouds. We ate dinner at a pullout gazing over a braided river before returning to our campsite. At this point we were adapting to an Alaskan summer schedule; sleep between 9-10pm and wake up between 8-9 am.

When we peeled off our Reflectix blackout shades the following morning we were greeted with blue skies and sunshine. It felt like a great omen for the day ahead. The driver on the bus that morning was entertaining but we saw very little wildlife for the first 2.5 hours of our ride. Near the turn around point we saw a grizzley bear eating berries ~200 yards away and a caribou standing in the shade. We were glad to have binoculars!

The 92.5 mile road through Denali National Park is only accessible by bus and bicycle. And this year, it is closed at Mile 43 because of a landslide. We had hoped to stash our car seats and walk around a bit at the end of the road, but at the time we got there the area was closed to hiking because of bear activity.

We rode another 10 min up the hill (and past the bear) to hike around Sable Pass. Our plan was to stash the car seats and hike off trail for a bit. Sable Pass had low grass and patches of fireweed. It looked perfect for a little off the beaten path adventure. We were nearly up to a nice patch of fireweed (about 200 yards from the road) when a ranger stopped her car and told us we were not allowed to be hiking off trail in that area.

One of the unique aspects of Denali is that much of the park is trail-less. Turns out the area we chose to hike was closed for off road exploration due to wildlife conservation and we had missed the signage. Unfortunately the area that we could hike had sheer drop offs or tall grass and bushes. So we walked the road, carrying 2 cumbersome car seats.

It was nice at first since it was just us, the road, the occasional bus and beautiful green mountains. It drizzled on and off but the scenery remained magnificent, Birds chirped and Arctic ground squirrels scurried past us as we walked. Then the road walking became monotonous. Eventually both kids fell asleep and we decided to walk until they woke up, at which point we would flag down a bus and hope they had enough room for the five of us.

Unsurprisingly, Ani woke up first. Around that time Andy thought he spotted some white dots on the rocks high above the road. White dots in the rocks were frequently doll sheep. Laurie looked through the binoculars and noted that those white dots were rocks but there, next to them, was a Grizzly bear and 3 cubs! We watched them forage and scamper for about 20 minutes, slowly making their way down the drainage and toward the road.

A bus pulled up going the opposite direction. They watched the bears with us for a few minutes until they disappeared. At first it was amazing and exciting, then it began to get a little scary. Uncertain when the next bus would come and where the Mama bear was headed, we got on that bus and rode it back up the road.

About 10 minutes up the road we switched buses to one that would take us back to the visitor center. The ride back felt like it went on forever. Both kids were restless and this driver was strict and wanted both kids to stay in their carseats. Luckily we had lots of snacks. Toward the end of the trip we saw a caribou on the road. Their 70 lb racks are amazing!

Friday morning was another slow start. Checkout at most campgrounds is 11 am and despite being awake by 9 am, this always feels like a rush. Laurie and Joanna walked laps around the campground as Ani slept on Laurie and Miles helped Andy. Miles continues to be a great “dada helper” earning stars setting up or leaving camp. His favorite jobs are deploying and retracting the awning (involving pushing a button inside the RV), setting up the leveling blocks and vacuuming,

We went to the visitor center to get service, check the weather and figure out where to go next. The air quality in Fairbanks was improving but with a leaking generator we did not want to count on our air conditioning to purify air. So we decided to return to Anchorage to stay in good clear air. Joanna canceled her Fairbanks to Anchorage flight and we headed south.

The first few campgrounds we tried were full but we got a RV site in Cantwell (about 30 min south of the entrance to Denali National Park). As we were busy on our phones figuring out logistics, we heard 2 trains come and go from the train depot. Traveling with a 4 year old who loves things on wheels more than chocolate, we had to check it out.

There wouldn’t be another train for 3 hours but on our way to the train station Laurie spotted blueberries. This was heaven! We spent at least 30 minutes bent over stuffing our bellies and collecting berries in our shirts. Miles wanted us to pick them for him and Ani kept reaching for the red berries hiding underneath the blueberries.

Around 3:30 pm we watched a train come into the rail depot. Miles was fascinated by the forklifts that carry luggage in pallets on and off the cars.

Finally, after the train left and we collected ourselves in the RV once again, we headed south out of the park. A family friend (Joan) joined us for dinner. She lives in Fairbanks and was gracious enough to make the drive to meet us and bring us delicious veggies from her garden. We had a feast of polenta, veggies and shrimp using our air fryer thanks to the electrical hookup at the RV park. For dessert we had s’mores around the campfire Andy and Miles had going.

The following morning we skipped rocks by a river and attempted to go hiking but were thwarted by a flooded jeep trail. We drove another 90 minutes (which took 3 hours) south and camped by the Susitna River in a fish and wildlife campground.

With our hectic weeks prior to departure, we didn’t have a chance to do the trip planning we had hoped. Other than our Airbnb and camping reservations in Denali, every day was a blank slate. Laurie had anticipated we would have some quiet nap times or nights to plan things out, but that wasn’t shaping up. Instead it was rushed Google searching while driving or looking up trails in the Milepost (a mile by mile description of the roads in Alaska).

Sometimes we found gems, other times we found duds. Today- it was a dud. We stopped for a 1.5 mile looped hike through a forest. We found a nice lookout but other than that it was a chance to stretch our legs and get bitten by mosquitoes!

Sunday morning as Andy cleaned up after breakfast, Joanna, Laurie and the kiddos explored the river and chatted with groups of fisherman waiting for the silver salmon to bite.

Around 11:30, our inevitable departure time, we drove to Anchorage. This would be our last evening together before Joanna flies home in the morning.

As we pull into the Golden Nugget RV park in Anchorage, Laurie feels oddly comfortable. Within the span of 6 nights we have grown accustomed to sleeping in gravel pits with other RVs and trailers. Everyone is super friendly, the laundry facilities are convenient and often there is space to run or playgrounds nearby. We are learning as we go, but for now, a RV park every 3-4 days works great.

Joanna takes Ani out for an hour as we have a virtual meeting with a preschool in Boise. As the rain gently falls we have our last Alaskan RV supper together as a family of 5. Tonight Miles serenaded us all to sleep with a “light show” by his singing, star projecting octopus.

The first 6 days in Anchorage were exhausting. Ani woke up frequently at night, solely soothed by nursing, and Miles pushed back and challenged every request or boundary we set. As the days wore on our patience faded. Joanna and Laurie worked together but Andy’s absence was felt.

The challenges from the lack of sleep and what felt like having 2 toddlers, were offset by some sweet moments and quiet afternoon car rides where inevitably both kids slept.

We treated ourselves to daily milkshakes and set our expectations low.

Over the course of the week we managed to get out each day and see some cool things but each day felt LONG! Maybe Laurie was expecting too much of herself and the kiddos. The first week we drove through the longest combined vehicle-railroad tunnel in North America and watched a salmon run.

We went to a Reindeer Farm where we talked to Santa’s reindeer (reminding them that Miles will be in Boise this year for Christmas), fed a moose, pet a pig and rode on a tractor.

We toured the Alaska vehicle museum where we walked through old trains and around fire engines from the 40’s. Unfortunately we were not allowed to sit or climb in the vehicles 😦

We pet 7 week old puppies and took a 10 minute dog sled ride. Each of these outings was an ordeal but in hindsight we did some cool things and managed to have some fun.

The low points were quite low. We attempted a 1 mile hike to a lake but only made it halfway as Miles refused to hike and Laurie couldn’t manage to carry both kids. We asked Miles to use his indoor voice countless times, had to take many deep breathes and do “do overs” in an attempt to remedy moments of pure frustration.

The worst part of each evening was trying to get both kids to go to sleep. Ani rarely stayed in her crib (or if she was, it was never a deep sleep and every noise was disrupting). Despite conversations and special screen time, Miles would inevitably come into the dark bedroom with a burst of energy and wake Ani up. In hindsight his actions were all attempts to get attention but boy was it frustrating! Laurie cried multiple times and felt levels of overwhelm and rage that were unfamiliar.

Andy drove like a champ and after a few 16 hour days he arrived 5.5 days after leaving Oakland. He arrived around 3:30 on Saturday afternoon, coincidently when both kids were napping, one on either side of Laurie with her arms trapped around each one. Andy was locked out of the Airbnb for over 30 min- not the welcome any of us had intended!

The kids were happy to see “dada” and Andy was thankful to elevate his swollen feet. Laurie wished things would magically improve and they did a little, but the power struggles and competition remained.

Our last day in Anchorage was rainy. We went shopping and did laundry at a laundromat (initially fun for Miles until the novelty wore off).

Around 4 pm we went for a little hike. Laurie secretly hoped that with Andy there too we could do the 3 mile loop, but that still proved to be too much. With rain threatening we opted for a short 1 mile loop. Ani initially walked more than Miles but once we started to descend he found his hiking and running legs. As we looped around Blueberry Hill we finally found some berries on the bushes, but they were green 😦 This brought hope to Laurie because now she knows we haven’t missed the opportunity to pick blueberries.

It spit as we finished our saunter. We played games of hide and seek in the trees until the meltdowns outnumbered the giggles and it was time to go home.

Our final night in the Airbnb was like many others, with Ani waking multiple times and only soothed by nursing. Miles has proven to be a great sleeper and didn’t seem bothered by the cries or the airplanes flying overhead.

The following morning we packed up and “moved” into the RV. The shuffle of stuff and food felt oddly familiar and annoying. Luckily this would be the last transition of sleeping locations for a few weeks, unless we go home early. The sleepless nights make that an unwanted but potentially necessary possibility,

This week we are grateful for vehicles and hopeful for sunny skies and sleep-filled nights.