April 21, 2016

Mission Creek Stonehouse to Arrastre Trail Camp (mile 256.2)

Miles: enough (mission creek fire road + burns canyon rd + FS 2N01) + .8 PCT mile = 12 hours of adventure

We woke up inside the stonehouse. We were sheltered from the wind but neither of us slept well thinking each creak or crack of the wood was someone coming in.

We gathered our belongings and enjoyed the luxury of having a picnic table to house our things while packing our backpacks.

We set out around 7 am. The heat was already intense with no wind but it was still early. We walked about 4 miles to a junction. We were using a route Andy devised from suggestions from others on the PCT Facebook page in addition to google maps. The road we wanted to take had 3 No Trespassing signs. We hesitantly took it anyway.

We walked about a quarter of a mile and saw more No Trespassing signs. At this point we both got nervous. Google maps is great at showing roads but does not distinguish between private property and public land.

Nervously we continued walking. Laurie thought that if she kept her head down and couldn’t see anyone- that meant they couldn’t see her. Obviously this logic doesn’t make sense but it felt better to believe it is so.

As we neared highway 62, the road approached a house. We got within a 100 yards of the house when 3 dogs started barking and running towards us. That was enough to make us quickly turn around and speed walk in the direction we had come.

“Well that won’t work. I guess we try plan B.”

We found a spot of shade and sat down to come up with plan B.

We walked the longer road out to the highway to hitch to Pioneertown. On Hwy 62 Andy was making a bigger sign when Laurie excitingly said “we got one!”

Our first hitchhiking success story! It took less than 5 minutes to get a ride 20 miles up the highway. Andrew dropped us off at a gas station and as we discussed where to stand next to hitch a guy approached and asked us where we were going. He offered to give us a ride.

David dropped us off at Pappy and Harriet’s in Pioneertown – a famous live music venue. We searched for a water spigot since this was the last form of civilization for who knew how long before we met up with PCT.

An employee let us use the faucet to get water while another employee named Jason came up and introduced himself. He hopes to hike the PCT in the next few years. He knew the exact road we were planning on hiking, which again reassured Laurie.

After more conversation he offered to drive us to his house for extra water and then up the road past some sketchy house with agressive dogs.

We happily took him up in his offer.

The unexpected kindness and generosity of people continues to leave us in awe.

About 5 miles up the road we saw another hiker. We can spot hiker trash from a distance now.

Jason dropped us off and we continued on together- 3 dirty and stinky hikers walking through the desert. Shortly after we ran into Florent- a Swiss hiker we met at Ziggy and the Bear’s enjoying a break in the shade. It was only 11 am and thanks to 3 generous motorists we had made it to a point that would have taken 20 unpleasant hours to walk.

We hiked on as a family of 4- Silver (Andy), Saver (Laurie), Nemo (Dave) and Tony Two Sole (Florent).

We walked through a magical forest of Joshua trees. Laurie had never seen a Joshua tree and was giddy with excitement.

We took frequent breaks in the shade to rest our feet and traded stories from the last few days and our experiences on and before the trail. It was nice getting to know other hikers beyond superficial small talk. Hiking with people for 8 hours offers a great opportunity to get to know one another.

Dave’s feet were hurting badly from three back to back 25 mile days. Today Andy’s left foot started bothering him too. His tight calf muscles and ligaments are probably the source of his discomfort.

During breaks, Laurie massaged Andy’s leg and he stretched his calf muscles frequently. We are hoping continued stretching and massaging resolve his discomfort.

We appreciate that when one of us is hurting so far the other has been in good spirits and able to help out. It is nice to be undertaking this adventure as a team!

Tony two-sole had a paper map but had no idea about mileage. Andy became the guide. We were using google maps offline so we could follow our blue dot on the fire road but really had no clue about distance. Both Nemo and Tony were low on water and greatly appreciated the extra jug that Andy was carrying. (Thanks again Jason!)

Although apprehensive at first, Laurie found it reassuring to know that Andy we the most prepared. He had researched more and played it safer by carrying more water to ensure our success.

Much to all our surprise, quite a few off road vehicles passed us going in both directions. This also put Laurie at ease.

As the road climbed the Joshua trees gave way to pine trees. We passed some old mines (apparently gold has been found in this area) before we turned onto forest service road 2N01 that would take us to the PCT.

Eventually, after what felt like forever, we intersected our trail. We hiked 0.8 miles to a designated camp only to find 2 picnic tables but no water. This camp is supposed to be a reliable water source but the river is dry and so too the faucet.

Tony two soles was hiking ahead of us and wasn’t at camp when we arrived. We figured he must have hiked on to find water. After about 10 minutes he approached hiking southbound towards us, his bottles full of water for everyone. Thanks Tony two soles!

We set up camp, made dinner and shared our dinners and bars with the others. We had food for another 2 days but because we left Los Angeles with leftovers and our successful hitching- we are once again ahead of schedule.

It felt good to be back on the PCT. It was like seeing an old friend- predictable and familiar.

We were pleasantly surprised by the unexpected ease of hitchhiking, the reassurance of having extra water, the unexpected companionship of Dave and Florent and lastly the unwelcomed and unexpected pain in Andy’s calf and ankle.

It is chilly tonight. We are camped at 7608 ft -a nice change from the hot and sticky desert. Tomorrow we have a 10 mile hike to Highway 18, where Andy’s friend is graciously hosting us for the night in Big Bear.

Tonight we are grateful for sufficient water and kind people.

April 20, 2016

Ziggy and the bear (mile 210.8) to Mission Creek Stonehouse

Miles: 18.1 (14.9 PCT miles + 1 mile for water + 2.2 miles on mission creek road

We left LA at 6:30am to drive back to Ziggy and the Bear. We got there at 8:15am, taped our feet, shuffled our belongings and set out into the heat at 8:45.

Today was the start of a 4 day- 60 mile adventure. Laurie was nervous, Andy was excited.

The PCT is closed from mile 234.5 to onyx summit (mile 252.1) due to the Lake Fire. We are attempting to walk around the closure-tying together some PCT miles, some dirt roads, some walks through towns and possibly (if we are lucky, some hitchhiking). The difficult and unnerving aspect of this reroute is the lack of knowledge of the roads and water availability.

On the PCT things are simple. Almost too simple. There are apps that use gps so you know exactly where you are in relation to the trail, where water sources and campsites are located, and much more. The thinking is done for you. All you have to do is walk.

Now- as we venture off the PCT it is like walking back in time. Back to a time when you have to use good ole maps. We do have google maps- so I guess we aren’t going all old school.

We head out on the PCT, walking past the Mesa wind farm and amongst dry tumble weed. Everything is super dry-it is easy to see how this area could burn.

We climb, at times gradually and other times more steeply. The wind, which we have fondly named “gusto” comes to visit rather sporadically. (Living in San Francisco where the fog is named “Karl” it seemed only natural to name the wind.)

On top of the ridge the wind picks up and flips our umbrellas inside out.

“Pace yourself Gusto, pace yourself” Andy shouts.

We turn our umbrellas right side out, store them away and resort to using our hats and many layers of sunscreen.
The trails winds down and around the hillsides past many cow patties (we never saw any cows) and drops into a canyon. In the distance we see Whitewater Canyon. It’s an oasis in the desert. Lukewarm water flowing through an arid landscape.

Surreal and beautiful.

We pass some botanists and chat about the area. They know the roads we are planning to take- cannot speak to the details of water availability- but the conversation alone puts Laurie at ease.

We walk another 2 miles and have lunch in the shade by the river. Two day hikers stop to chat. Recently when people learn we are thru- hikers they get excited and want to know all about us. Most frequently we are asked what kind of jobs we have that allow us to take 6 months off? Really though, what they want to know is how we are doing this.

Andy gently reminds them that if we really want to do something, we will find ways to make it happen. He says that our brains work differently when we commit to doing something. We forget the excuses and start thinking of solutions.

After an hour long break, we pack up and hit the trail as the sun begins encroaching our shade. This time we take a total of 9 liters with us. It’s more than we need, way more, but we’d rather have extra than run out of water out here.

It’s 2:30pm and nearing 90 degrees. We make promises to one another to drink plenty and say something if we start to overheat.

Right out of the gate, we climb 600 ft, then down, then up again. Thankfully our friend gusto keeps us cool.

We walk along the ridge appreciating the beauty of the desert. It’s really pretty here. And unlike the rest of the trail, this section is deserted because majority of PCT hikers are catching a ride to Big Bear due to the closure.

We enjoy the serenity of the quiet desert, find the still flowing Mission Creek, top off all our bottles (we are carrying 9 liters again – Laurie carrying 4, and Andy 5) and start walking the fire road.

At 6:30pm we walk into the Mission Creek Preserve to find the storehouse picnic area. This will be home for tonight.

It’s really windy here, so we sleep indoors. What’s really great about this place is they have running water and the cleanest toilets we’ve ever come across. There is soap, tp and paper towels! Thank you to whomever keeps this place in tip top shape!

We eat dinner outside sitting on a picnic table, listening to coyotes howling in the distance.

It’s time for bed in our cozy adobe. It’s a little too warm but it beats getting pounded by the wind. Goodnight.

Tonight we are grateful for the wind and running water.

Laurie woke up at 4 am to a familiar “pop”

“Shit” Andy whispered in the dark.

“Was that you?”

“Yup” Laurie replied in a sleepy and disappointed tone.

Now both of our pads had busted. 

A few mornings prior Andy was sitting up stuffing his sleeping bag when his pad popped. Initially neither of us knew what had happened. On closer inspection we noted that one of the baffles had come undone. The pad didn’t deflate completely, but with one big lump in the middle of the pad, it wouldn’t be very comfortable to sleep on. We sleep on Exped hyperlite pads. They are super comfy but apparently not super resilient. 

Andy was willing to make it work until we got to Big Bear on Friday, but now that both of us would be sleeping on lopsided pads we decided to attend to the issue.

So today we took an unexpected zero. 

Andy called a friend who drove 2 hours to come and get us. Thanks Tony! We exchanged our pads at REI and Andy got a new backpack.

Andy has had his pack for over 6 years and dealt with minor discomforts thinking it was all just part of backpacking. Majority of the weight fell on his shoulders rather than his hips. With our heavy water carries these minor discomforts became more bothersome. We tried to fiddle with the straps and placement of the hip belt, but that only led to love handle chafage- not pleasant! Today Andy settled on the REI flash 65- we hope it is a keeper!

With only 2 days on trail, Laurie struggled with feeling like she didn’t “deserve” this day off. She felt she hadn’t walked far enough to have another feast and shower. Funny how these basic parts of life are interpreted in her mind as rewards, rather than just a benefit of living.

It is amazing how deep rooted internal monologues surface even on long journeys like this.

This, however, is the life of a thru hiker- learning to roll with the punches and change plans on a whim. Laurie, who is accustomed to plans, is slower to adapt to this way of life than Andy.

Once at the home of Andy’s parents we feasted twice, took a short nap, laundered our clothes and attended to “adult” issues like car insurance and health insurance. The day flew by.

It is now time for bed as tomorrow the adventure continues!

Today we are grateful for good friends and  Rei’s return policy.