May 10, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 522.1) to Tylerhorse
Canyon (mile 541.5)

Miles: 19.4

Our campsite last night was a huge score. The wind died down to a pleasant breeze – just enough to keep the bugs away, the temperature remained mild and the ground, soft.

We both woke up excited for different reasons. Laurie excited to take pictures of the sunrise and Andy because he finally slept a night without his IT bands hurting. He may have figured out a system to sleep without waking up 4 or 5 times to reposition. The experiments continue…

We set off around 6:30am with the heat steadily intensifying. We walked on the widest trail yet – pavement covering the aqueduct and adjacent dirt road. We wandered back and forth – walking on both surfaces to offer variety for our feet.

Andy figured out how to attach the umbrella to his pack and happily walked along under a 3 foot circle of shade. After a shoes off break around 9:30am Gabriel loaned his umbrella to Laurie and the 3 of us continued on walking 3 abrest before the heat of the day scorched us. It must have been in the 80s before 10am.

Because of our early start and flat miles we completed our first 10 before 10 (10 miles before 10 am.) Suprisingly it felt anticlimactic – as if we already knew we could do it.

Talking with Gabriel as we walked provided a nice distraction for both of us and helped the miles roll by.

Around 11am we made it to Cottonwood Creek. At this wonderful oasis trail angels had left Gatorade and filtered water in a cooler. The city of Los Angeles maintain a faucet that unleashed beautifully cold water, and a bridge provided shade. Shade!!

We couldn’t believe how many hikers were taking a respite under the bridge.  Some had stayed here the night before while others, like us, walked there throughout the morning.

We were reunited with James, Oolong, and Meta, hikers we hadn’t seen since Ziggy and the Bear’s. They all thought we were ahead of them and we thought they were ahead of us. Funny how that happens.

It was interesting seeing people again after a few weeks. Everyone looked a little more weathered: dirty, bearded and happy.

We rolled out our Tyvek, sat down and enjoyed lunch.

Soon we decided we’d wait out the heat of the day and hike again around 3pm.

More hikers we knew showed up, including Pornstar and Amanda. We also met new faces, including Tank Girl and High Roller.

We stretched, journaled and chatted with other hikertrash. Periodically we inched over as the sun encroached in our shade.

Finally around 3:30pm we got 7 liters of water for the 6 miles to a dry camp. Our hike was mainly through a wind farm and as the name suggests, it was very windy.

We had strong headwinds and knock-you-sideways winds. As strong as the winds were, we appreciated the cool air they delivered against our hot and sweaty bodies.

At 6pm we made it our projected campsite at mile 540.3. Two hikers in separate tents were already set up there, so we decided to hike on.

We climbed back into the wind and 1.5 miles later switchbacked down to Tylerhorse Canyon.

Many flat campsites greeted us along with a running stream. We don’t know what’s feeding this stream but we are very grateful for it.

We quickly chose a campsite and put up the tent, allowing Laurie to make our home for the night while Andy went to the stream to get water for tomorrow and the day after. We have a 25 mile waterless stretch ahead of us and are going to take 6 liters each- enough to last us until we get into the town of Mojave 1.5 days from now.

But tonight, we did not concern ourselves with this. We instead enjoyed falling asleep to the sound of crickets and a babbling brook.

Goodnight.

Tonight we are grateful for bridges providing shade in the desert and intimate conversations with other hikers.

May 9, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 503.5) to buschcamp (522.1)

Miles: 18.6

Last night was another windy one. Our rain fly flapped in the wind, unhooking itself from one of the front stakes and was covered in mud this morning when we awoke.

We took our time getting ready – rolling the tent and crumbling the now dirty and wet rain fly. Andy carried the tent and Laurie took the rain fly and Tyvek groundsheet. Everyday our system of who carries what portion of the tent changes – at times due to aches and pains, and other times because of sheer stubbornness.

What was covered in a blanket of fog yesterday evening was now basking in the morning light. The tops of the trees across the ridge displayed the entire spectrum of green with some orange and brown colors mixed in. It looked and felt like fall. Really beautiful.

And quite unexpected. The last two days of hiking have been a real treat.

We walked back into the enchanted oak tree forest carpeted by miners lettuce for a few more miles before the trail opened up into a meadow. The grasses danced in the wind as we walked past. Andy couldn’t help but smile. He loved it there and wants to go back in the future.

We descended on an old jeep road down towards the valley floor. Far below and across the highway were large green circles we presumed were some sort of agricultural establishment. And across the desert were more mountains a few days walk away.

We switchbacked down, stepping over down trees and past yucca plants. We crossed a road and encountered a sign which read “Stay on trail – PCT adjacent to shooting range.” This was unnerving but at least we were hiking through in May – outside shooting and hunting season.

Andy lead most of the day as it was prime rattlesnake territory. The sun was warm and the chill of the previous night felt like a distant memory.

We walked up and down small hills, past bright orange and yellow poppies and other small but beautiful flowers. Finally we reached a dirt road that eventually intersected highway 138.

One of our Instagram followers patrols this area and brought us cold water. Thanks for the refreshing water Pat!

We then crossed the street to Hikertown – an odd but fun place with lots of mini buildings. We hung out for a few hours with other hikers, charging our phones and eating lunch.

We reunited with Gabriel – another hiker we originally met at Ziggy and the Bear’s and saw again at North Fork Ranger Station. The 3 of us set out together around 4:30 to walk the aqueduct.

We’ve been looking forward to this experience.

We walked east along the California aqueduct for a few miles before turning north and walking along one of the two LA aqueducts.

We walked on the aqueduct initially and then transitioned to the road once the novelty wore off and the tiny spikes became bothersome to our feet.

We walked past a Joshua tree forest and Laurie’s excitement and admiration for the trees was reignited. We decided to camp near a cluster of Joshua trees and watched the sun fade to the west.

It was a wonderful day and nice transition back into the desert. We enjoyed seeing familiar faces and meeting new hikers at Hikertown.

Tonight may be one of the best camp spots yet!

We’re hoping to sleep early and get an early start tomorrow as it’s going to get hotter over the next few days. Over 90 degrees by Wednesday. Eek.

But that’s all to come. Right now, we enjoy where we are and whom we are with.

Tonight we are grateful for beautiful desert landscapes and new moons.

May 8, 2016

Leona Divide fire road (mile 469.3) to bushcamp (mile 503.5)

Miles: 20.6 (plus 11.3 mile hitch)

We woke up in a cloud. Everything was soaked – the tent, the fly, the surrounding bushes but not us! Not yet anyway. And despite our slanted camping spot we both slept well.

As we walked, the grasses on either side of the trail donated water to our pants, gaiters and shoes. Within 15 minutes our feet and lower legs were soaked, but we didn’t care. We knew that eventually the sun would come out and dry us off.

The trail was a defined cut out in a green hill. Yucca stood tall over the green manzanita bushes acting like watchmen surveying the land. The trail widened on relatively flat ground. Easy walking, we’ll take it.

We passed a number of nice camp spots around mile 471.3. Note for next time or for any readers that are behind us. Take em.

Almost 2 miles from San Francisquito Road, a trail runner passed us going the opposite direction, followed by her daughter and 2 dogs 5 minutes later. As the runner passed us again on her way back she asked if we were thru hiking and offered us a ride. Easiest hitch ever-we weren’t even down to the road!

Andy was hesitant to accept the ride because he was embarrassed about how he smelled. Only 24 hours in and we both smelled like we had been out here for a week.

When we got down to the road, Sarah and Michelle were stretching and waiting for us. They reassured us we didn’t stink and we all climbed in to their 4Runner. They drove us to the Lower Shake Campground use trail and access point back to the PCT.

We passed other hikers walking alongside the road and felt grateful for the ride.

Thank you Sarah and Michelle for your generosity and enthusiasm.

We walked past an abandoned bathroom and up the steep trail lined with poison oak to Upper Shake Campground. Both of these campgrounds no longer get much use because of the Powerhouse Fire of 2013.

We stopped at a picnic table to dry out our tent. Little red bugs flung themselves onto everything. Initially we tried to brush them off but realized it was futile, they were everywhere.

We took off our shoes and sat on the picnic table to eat lunch. A big gust of wind carried our tent 15 ft down a hill and Andy chased after it barefoot.

We hung out for about an hour and then resumed walking uphill back to the PCT.

Between the 2 campgrounds we passed a family from Palmdale who were out for a Mother’s Day hike. They made two wooden PCT signs and posted them to direct hikers back to the trail. Thank you so much y’all!

The best part of our hike thus far has been the generosity of strangers.

Once back on the PCT we walked through a green enchanted forest. Miners lettuce lined the trail – sometimes green and sometimes orange and yellow. Tall grass thrived in the shade provided by oak trees. It was hard to believe we were still in the desert!

The trail continued like this for a few miles then opened up. At that point small Manzanita trees lined the trail.

We hiked past the 500 mile marker and broke out in song and dance to The Proclaimers “I would walk 500 miles…” We wonder how many other people thought the same thing as they passed this milestone.

We walked on another 2 miles to a water guzzler. This is the first of this type of water source either of us have seen- it looks like a big piece of metal roof covering a fiberglass tub that collects and stores rain water.

We scooped water out of the guzzler and poured it into our bottles using part of our cheese cloth to catch big particles of dirt and sticks. But before we got any water from here Andy checked for dead animals in the water. Thankfully the tank was free of such debris.

We walked another mile to a campsite, ready for an early evening. Fog rolled in quickly, reminding us of San Francisco. It was downright chilly!

We lay down our Tyvek groundsheet and within seconds it was covered by tiny flea like bugs. We were both grossed out and thinking they were coming from the nearby tree we decided to look for another spot down the trail.

We walked on anticipating to find other potential spots. Half a mile down the trail we found a flat spot right off the trail. We were tired and it was getting cold.

We lay down the Tyvek again and the same bugs appeared. This time we didn’t care. We were in their habitat after all. We just hope they don’t bite. Or make their way into our underpants 🙂

Laurie set up the pads while Andy heated water. We ate dinner, cleaned our toes and discovered that Andy’s huge blister by his 2nd toe was now bigger and bloodier that hours ago during lunch. Suprisingly, it never bothered him. We popped it and hope it remains as painless as it was today.

The wind is howling around us but we are cozy once again in our sleeping bags. Good night.

Tonight we are grateful for friendly locals and our stove.