July 8, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 1764.6) to bushcamp (mile 1786.9)

Miles: 22.3

Total miles walked: 1380.6

The forecast predicted rain during the night. We didn’t have rain but there were many small rodents scurrying around outside our tent. Laurie kept waking up thinking mice were chewing through the tent. Luckily in the morning there were no holes, just tired humans.

We had agreed on a 6am departure time unless it was pouring. At 5:30 am the rain started. Man! We were so close to being able to put away a dry tent.

Thankfully it was only sprinkling.

We headed out of camp dressed in our rain pants and rain coats. It was a wet morning.

The first 2 miles we walked through multiple lava fields. The trail was a distinct red color in comparison to the dark volcanic rocks. It felt like we were following the yellow brick road – although in our case it was the red lava rock trail.

The rocks were sharp but our feet were fresh.

Our first major obstacle was a large down tree across the rocky trail. The diameter of the trunk was at least 4 feet wide. Luckily a branch had broken off so we used that to push off and vault over the trunk. This was a little foreshadowing of what was to come.

Within 30 minutes of leaving camp our feet were soaked. The rain came down steadily and plants donated their wetness as we brushed past. Despite all of our raingear, after a few hours we were soggy and wet throughout. Not even our bellybutton were dry.

Even though we were wet and uncomfortable, we made an effort to appreciate the beauty around us. The air smelled like damp earth, rich and full of life. The wolf lichen glowed through the low hanging gray clouds.

Just as we got to hwy 140, it started to pour. It was decision time. Speed suggested we hitch 2 miles, get a cabin at Fish Lake and wait out the storm. While enticing, Laurie’s godmother was coming to meet us in Crater Lake and we wanted to maximize our time with her.

So we pushed on, into the rain and wet forest. Reluctantly Speed pushed on with us. He really doesn’t like hiking in all day rain but it is easier to endure the rain with company. Thankfully it wasn’t cold so as long as we were moving we were okay.

About a half a mile after crossing a bridge over a fast flowing creek we encountered our first few blowdowns. Our progress was slowed dramatically as we went over, under or around the logs.

Andy started to count how many logs we stepped over or ducked under.

We picked our way through the downed logs. The low lunges, hops and careful stepping was exhausting.

“If I weren’t wearing a backpack and knew I could take a hot shower tonight, this would be fun!” Remarked Laurie as she climbed over a tree trunk.

Unfortunately neither was possible. We were wet and at least 40 miles from Crater Lake. So we kept going.

“At least this isn’t boring” added Speed.

It was like Parkour in the backcountry, although we were not as fast or as graceful as those athletes.

Around 11:30am the rain let up so we stopped for an early lunch. Even with all the log crossings we knew we’d make it to camp early.

Almost instantly the mosquitoes swarmed us. There were at least 50 of the buzzing buggers around each of us.

Oregon is infamous for its mosquitoes, especially in July. We knew that but it is so much worse to experience it first hand. We hope it isn’t like this the entire state!

After 15 minutes we were sick of the mosquitoes and the rain started up again. With headnets under our raincoat hoods and hats we continued walking through the maze of downed logs.

The mosquitoes never let up, not even during stronger periods of rain. They didn’t hassle us too much as we walked, but if we stopped even a moment, they were all over us like Laurie near a pie!

Andy recalls reading another hiker’s journal entry from a few years ago about how he almost had a meltdown in Oregon because of the mosquitoes. He now understands why.

At one point Andy stopped to take a pee and had to use his other hand to create enough wind to keep the mozzies from biting his manhood.

Around 4:20 pm we reached camp. Even here we had to climb over a few logs to get to the flat spots of ground. This was much earlier than when we usually stop but we were all tired and wet. It had been a long day.

In 16 miles we had navigated over or under 309 downed trees!

We quickly put up our tents and stripped out of our wet clothes.

Andy stayed out to boil water for dinner and to drink. Cold days usually amount to us drinking less water and we hoped the warm water would entice us to drink more. Unfortunately Andy wasn’t very thirsty and Laurie didn’t want to drink much in fear of having to go into the mosquito war zone to pee.

After dinner, as we were cozy in our tents, the skies let loose. It rained hard for almost an hour.

“If this continues I’ll have to move my tent” Speed remarked as the rain pooled around his tent. 

Unfortunately we had similar issues. Water was pooling under the bottom half of our tent. When we put our hands down on the floor we created ripples.

The floor under both of our air mattresses was sopping wet.

Rats!

Andy got out see if there were other spots we could move to, but no luck. Speed’s former spot was now a huge puddle of water and so were the other spots around ours.

Andy dug a few channels to allow the water to escape from the bottom of the tent. Hopefully this works and it doesn’t rain too hard during the night.

It could get ugly. We will find out in the morning. Now it is time to sleep.

Goodnight.

Tonight we are grateful for sections of clear trail and dry sleeping bags.

July 7, 2016

Bushcamp (mile 1738.6) to bushcamp (mile 1764.6)

Miles: 26.6 (26 PCT miles + .6 miles to Klum Campground and back to the trail)

Total miles walked: 1358.3

We were up and walking by 6 am – Speed time. We walked together for the first 1.7 miles to a water fountain. There was a small hill initially but mostly the trail was flat and the ground soft.

“I’m glad we didn’t do this last night” Speed commented as we huffed and puffed up the trail. We agreed!

We got water, made a few phone calls and continued on. Speed was ahead of us and with our usual start and stop routine, we didn’t see one another until after lunch.

We continued to walk through dry grassy fields and forests. Butterflies danced around us and birds sang. Ah the trail life. It’s quite magical most of the time.

Around 9:45 am we took a 0.3 mile detour to Klum campground. Speed had mentioned several times this morning that he wanted a shower.

When we got to the campground there was one person in the shower, but no sign of Speed.

We had a nice 30 minute shoes off break on a picnic table. Laurie ate her summer sausage (never too early for salty sausage and crackers!) and washed out her socks and underwear. Hot water and soap in the bathroom was a pleasant surprise.

With full bellies and full water bottles we hiked on another 6 miles up a long but gradual hill. We played the alphabet game with categories of countries, companies and sports. Laurie eventually started listening to podcasts as well.

The scenery was pretty but not captivating. The greenery got a little montonous and today was one of the days we needed additional entertainment outside of our own thoughts.

Around 12:30 we found Speed. He was just finishing lunch and we hiked on together. Well initially. No matter how hard we try something always comes up that slows us down and Speed gets away, just as his name suggests.

At the top of the hill we checked for service to check the weather. The sky has more clouds in it today than we have seen in the past week. The forecast predicts rain tomorrow and the following 2 days as well. We have been so lucky with the weather since leaving Belden, hopefully the storm isn’t too bad.

We hiked down the trail, enjoying the soft ground and clear trail. We could tell a trail crew had been through here lately because the wood chips looked fresh and we could smell the freshly cut trunks.

We navigated our way around the 10 or so remaining down trees and made it to the South Brown Mountain Shelter. This is one of the few shelters along the trail. We had toyed with the idea of staying here but it was too early to stop for the day. We took a nice long break, chatted with 2 hikers from Colorado who had just begun their thru hiking adventure.

Around 5 pm we laced up our shoes and walked the remaining 4 miles to camp. We walked together, Speed sharing stories from the AT and keeping us all entertained and distracted from the pain in our feet.

The last 2 miles were on small volcanic rocks. Not the most ideal way to end a 26 mile hiking day.

We got to our campsite location and unsuccessfully spent 10 minutes looking for a different spot that would allow us to be further from the trail.

We ate dinner together and we shared some of our many pre and post dinner snacks. The mosquitoes started to swarm as we were wrapping up so we hurriedly erected the tent and rain fly.

Tomorrow we face the dreaded area with lots of blow downs. We have heard differing reports from southbound hikers and it will be good to see and experience it for ourselves. At least the elevation profile should be gentle.

Tonight we are grateful for cheerful birds and picnic tables.

July 6, 2016

Callahan’s Lodge (mile 1715.2) to bushcamp (mile 1738.6)

Miles: 23.4

Total miles walked: 1332.3

Sleeping in a king size bed felt wonderful. We were able to snuggle and then sleep like starfish without disturbing one another. Someday we hope to have this same luxury in our home. Until then, we will continue to enjoy our cozy tent home and occasional nights in big beds.

Although we were next to the highway the noise didn’t bother any of us, not even with the window open.

Our room was east facing and the rising sun was beautiful. The open blinds let in the bright orange rays of yet another clear Northern California day.

We woke up around 6 am and continued to work on blog posts. We like to get caught up before walking away from reception. It lets you, the readers, stay updated and allows us a clean slate for the next “backpacking trip.”

We consider this whole 6 month adventure a string of shorter backpacking trips. It makes it sound much more feasible, more enjoyable and less overwhelming.

When sorting through our resupply packages the day before we realized we had one too many dinners. Since they were all good, we decided to each eat one for breakfast instead of going to the restaurant downstairs.

So around 7:30 am Andy enjoyed buckwheat with sautéed veggies and a tin of sardines while Laurie wolfed down quinoa with kale and pinto beans.

At 9 am we hoisted our now full and heavy packs and walked away from Callahan’s Lodge. Our mighty trail family of 5 had shrunk to only 3. Cardinal was going home and Fixie was taking a zero.

Speed walked with us back under Interstate 5 and along the old hwy 99 for what felt like forever. The road was a gradual and continuous up. It was one of those roads that don’t look bad but when biking up them your legs burn.

Our legs were burning today just by walking – but not because we were walking fast – our backpacks were too darn heavy!

It was about a mile on asphalt before we noticed the familiar PCT emblem on a signpost.

Ah… Soft dirt! It felt fabulous.

We walked along the roller coaster trail for about 10 miles before stopping for lunch. We walked past Pilot Rock – an outcropping rock with hexagon shaped spires.

The trail meandered between forests and grassy meadows. The scenery was not as dramatic as in the past week but still beautiful. We were surrounded by green and brown rolling hills. The temperature was pleasant and the sun was out.

Unfortunately Laurie wasn’t feeling good. Today was the first day of her period and she felt sluggish. Her backpack was heavy with 5 days of food synched tightly around her already bloated waist and hips. The first few miles and hours rolled by slowly.

At lunch Andy offered to carry Laurie’s food bag. She reluctantly took him up on the offer, feeling guilty for not carrying her own stuff.

“We are a team” he kept reminding her.

“Okay, okay… But if you feel one ounce of pain let me know and I will take it back.”

The exchange was made and off we went. Laurie felt more comfortable and Andy felt good knowing he was helping.

The afternoon was uneventful. We got water from a beautiful spring that had water flowing from 3 parts of a pipe.

Again we walked up and down small hills and in and out of the sun and shade. Andy’s new blue shoes acted as a rock magnet as he tripped his way through the miles.

He had a small temper tantrum after tripping over one too many rocks. The extra weight of his pack propelled him forward and with every trip came an even harder landing.

Luckily he was never injured, just frustrated. After tossing his hiking poles 20 feet ahead of him and kicking one of them when we reached it, he felt better and continued on.

At mile 1731.3 we passed our personal halfway mark. There was no sign post of course but we did our own little celebration. It was a toned down version of a celebration as Laurie wasn’t feeling so hot and we just wanted to reach camp.

At 7:15 we came to one of our proposed campsites. Speed was asleep under a tree. He had eaten and was resting, waiting to hear our thoughts on continuing or making home for the evening.

It didn’t take long for us to decide to stay. We had hiked plenty, particularly with a 9 am start.

We ate a yummy dinner, polished off a bag of 18 Rabbits granola and made a plan for the next day.

Ideally we have 1 more day of easy walking before the snow and blow downs… We will see though, each person we talk to has a slightly different trail report.

For now we hope to go to sleep soon to the noise of the waterfall less than a tenth of a mile away.

Tonight we are grateful for injury free tripping and supportive partners.