Thursday July 27, 2017

Cabane de Prafleuri to Arolla

Mile: 11.69 mi

Elevation gain / loss: +2,330 ft / -4,438 ft

Total miles: 24.83

We slept surprisingly well for being packed like sardines in the dorm. We were strategic in our choice of pads which ended up playing to our favor with an empty pad on either side of us.

The day before, upon paying for our accommodations we had to choose a breakfast time – 6, 6:30 or 7 am. The dorm had to be empty by 7:30 so we opted for a 6:30 breakfast. After hearing the weather forecast we entertained the idea of delaying breakfast to wait out the morning rain and clouds but at 7:30 they had cleared out the dining hall as well.

The people who maintain the huts work incredibly hard to accomdate the 20 – 50 hikers they feed and house each night. 

We will admit we were a little disappointed in the lack of hospitality of this hut. Granted we have only been to 2 but the schedule seemed a little strict and detracted from the “homey” feel.

By 7:45 we joined the mass of hikers making their way up the trail to Col Des Roux. It was a short 30 minute hike up to the pass. At the top we were treated to more gray clouds and the long Lac Des Dix. 


We were both grateful to see a trail winding its way down the grassy hillside. “A trail! A real trail!” exclaimed Andy with delight. 

It occurred to Laurie that our hike is aptly named the “Haute Route” as thus far it has been more of a route than a trail. 

We glided down the trail, admiring the waterfalls pouring into the lake below and the wildflowers that lined the trail. While the clouds continued to obscure the views, the flowers and small plants got much more of our attention and appreciation.

We stopped by the Refuge De La Gentiane La Barma which is an old cheese dairy and cow farm turned refuge. Hikers can stay here but must be self suffient as there is no food or bedding available.

It was another 45 min walk to the end of the lake. We passed grazing cows on the hillsides and many on the road. The sound of their jingling cow bells filled the air providing what Andy referred to as the soundtrack of the Swiss Alps.

From here we began our climb toward Col de Riedmatten. It started out steeply as many small, deep and narrow paths wound their way up the green hillside. We made our way slowly and steadily up toward the glacial moraine of Chelion glacier. We stopped a few times to make sure we were on the correct track since there were trails below us and nobody in sight.

Eventually  we reached the junction for the Cabane Des Dix. Here we verged off to the left and crossed a glacier melt river cascading down through the gorge.

We picked our way across fields of shale, medium sized boulders and trail. We walked to the base of the Chelion glacier and took a lengthy break in hopes that Mont Blanc de Chelion would fully emerge from the clouds. It didn’t. So after 20 minutes we set off again.

The trail came to a few more junctions before climbing steeply towards the Col. Here again, there was no trail but a boulder field with red and white painted blazes marking the route. Luckily there was no snow to contend with so the going was easier and faster.

This portion of the trail is a ‘choose your adventure’ type of scenario. One can continue to scramble up loose rocks and boulders toward the Col de Riedmatten or climb a series of 4 ladders to Pas de Chevres.

We opted for the ladders. Laurie admitted to being scared on the second ladder and Andy understood why when he got there. When climbing up the first ladder you can’t see below you. But you can on the second one, and it’s a loooong way down.

It is amazing how powerful our brains are. It almost seems that you can do whatever you put your mind to, even scaring yourself silly even though you’re perfectly safe.

Once we reached the top of the 4th ladder, we took a few steps and our jaws dropped. 

We had views! 

Of mountains!!

The Matterhorn and many others were in view, including a few glaciers. Finally, our hard work had payed off.

Yes, hiking and physically challenging ourselves is a reward in and of itself but we do hike for the views too. It’s an excellent reward and a great motivator. Hiking day after day in inclement weather knowing what we are not seeing can be demoralizing, especially if the trail is challenging.

But right now, in this place and time, we had sunshine and views of grand mountains. 

We climbed even higher off trail and found a nice place to just stare at our new horizon and snack.

After about 30 minutes we set off yet again down the trail – and yes, on this side of the mountain we had a nice, soft 18 foot wide dirt path to walk on. Lovely!

At a junction we chose to take the road down to town to save our knees but sonnafter the road ended and we were reunited with the trail. As we predicted the trail got steeper as it switchbacked into town, descending at least 1,500 feet to Arolla.

As we descended, we distracted ourselves with conversation and views of Pigne d’Arolla mountain and Tsijiore Nouve glacier. We also realized that we were descending into trees. We haven’t hiked among trees since we picked up the trail outside Verbier!

Once in the cute town of Arolla we caught up with an English couple we’ve shared dinner with the last 2 nights. They are leaving the trail today and it was nice to say goodbye. 

Laurie noticed a shop selling ice cream and lit up like a beam. We walked through town, Laurie happily licking her ice cream and both of us admiring all the brightly colored flower boxes on the balconies of all the rooms of the hotels.

After two more miles of descending the trail paralleling the road we made it the Hotel De La Tza, our home for the night.

It was 3:53pm and we were told that we couldn’t check in until 4pm. “Very Swiss of them” Andy mumbled with a smile, only half irritated. Truth be told he had to poo and didn’t want to wait.

Once we checked in, Andy made a beeline for the bathroom. We then showered, our first in 3 days. 

We worked on the blog and before we knew it, it was time for dinner. Unfortunately something we ate didn’t agree with Andy’s stomach. He went to bed around 8pm and almost immediately fell asleep. 

Laurie blogged and spoke with her mom until she too felt her eyes closing. It didn’t take long to fall asleep in our comfy beds.

Tonight we are grateful for hot showers and sunny mountain vistas.

Wednesday July 26, 2017

Cabane de Louvie to Cabane de Praflouri

Miles: 7.19

Elevation gain/loss: +3,233 ft / -1,888 ft

Total miles: 13.14

We fell asleep hopeful to wake up to blue skies. Unfortunately the gray clouds remained and as Laurie fondly describes, it was “actively fogging.”

Other hikers discussed alternate routes but we figured we would go for it and see what the mountains and sky offered.

We ate a nice breakfast of muesli with yogurt (Andy enjoyed bread as a vehicle to eat butter and jam as well), which we washed down with many cups of tea.

We set out around 8:30am. It had stopped raining but the clouds were so thick we couldn’t see the opposite side of the lake.

Luckily it wasn’t coldEdit, therefore didn’t take long for us to take off our jackets and shortly after our rain pants. The clouds continued to float in and out as we climbed back up to the trail we had left the afternoon before to drop down to Cabane de Louvie.

The snow level was lower and we followed the wet foot prints in front of us. In places it seemed like 6 inches of new snow! The rock faces around (at least those that we could see) all had a nice dusting.

About an hour into our hike we encountered our first of many boulder fields. Climbing over and around boulders is not easy in good weather, but doing so when they are partially covered in snow felt quite treacherous. We both moved slowly and carefully. 

Laurie, who grew up hiking and has distinct memories of her mom encouraging her to scramble up rock faces in Yosemite, is more sure footed than Andy. She stopped frequently to encourage and provide suggestions to Andy but this was not always welcomed. 

Andy became increasingly frustrated with himself, his slow pace and lack of comfort. He pouted which made Laurie giggle. This was reciprocated with Andy throwing a snowball at Laurie.

It is refreshing that we can tease each other and use humor even in times of stress or anxiety.

We continued on gradually making our way to Col de Louvie. The going was slow as the trail wound in and out of boulder fields and around exposed ledges. 

Chains were conveniently bolted into the rocks at several particularly exposed areas providing a sense of extra security.

The lack of views made it easier to focus on our steps. Despite gaining 2300 feet in less than 3 miles, the hiking was more mentally challenging than physically exhausting.

Occasionally the clouds would thin and parts of beautiful white mountains appeared in the distance. It was a teaser of all that surrounded us but was obstructed by the clouds. 

Oh well, we were happy to get glimpses of such beauty. And that it wasn’t raining.

We caught up with a couple from Singapore at the Col. We chatted a few minutes before both taking off to avoid getting cold.

We descended from the Col toward the Grand Desert. Below us lay glacier terrain and tarns.

We dropped below snow line and continued to follow the red and white paint blazes and cairns as we weaved our way down to the basin.

From here it was a series of smaller ups and downs before our final ascent to Col de Plafleuri. The walking was easier because of the lack of snow and exposure. Both of our spirits lifted as did our speed.

As we crested one small hill a huge glacier lay to our right.

“Hurry up! You have to see this before it disappears!” Laurie yelled to Andy. 

Andy turned his whole body to look at it. His neck has been very stiff today. Sudden movements are painful. 

Before we knew it we were at Col de Plafleuri. At 9,700 feet, it is an impressive pass. The views on a clear day must be really spectacular. 

Kai and Huy (the couple from Singapore) greeted us at the top. We took a few pictures for one another and headed down the pass.

Not surprisingly our descent was very steep. Laurie headed down quickly while Andy took a bit longer.

We wound around tiny switchbacks which Laurie felt would be awesome if she were an ant on a bicycle. Part of her is still riding on the smooth twisty mountain roads of the French Alps.

We hiked through an old query site before reaching the Cabane de Plafleuri. Contrary to the stats, it felt like a tough day and we were happy to be done. 

Upon check in we discovered that they had canceled our reservation 3 days prior when Andy had called to confirm, like they ask us to do.

In the end it didn’t matter as there was room in the hut. We got settled in our dorm room (9 mats lined directly next to one another), used wet wipes to clean up (after hiking the PCT we don’t feel like we need a shower, especially one we have to pay 5 Swiss Francs for).

We went downstairs to the dining room to look at our route for tomorrow and to try to be social. 

By this time the English couple had arrived so we chatted about various things until it was time for dinner. 

Before serving food one of the gals read the weather report “Cloudy and rain tonight. Cloudy tomorrow morning. Sun in the afternoon but very windy.”

Hopefully we will have some decent views tomorrow.

We had another 4 course dinner consisting of soup, salad, beef stew, rice and canned peach with whipped cream.

With full tummies we retired to our dorm around 830 pm and were asleep by 930.

Tonight we are grateful for sure footing and warm soup.

Tuesday July 25, 2017

Verbier (La Chaux) to Cabane de Louvie

Miles: 5.95 mi

Elevation gain / loss: +1,827 ft / -1,875 ft

We woke up to the sound of cars driving on a wet road. Andy, who is still adjusting to this time zone, was wide awake at 4 am. Laurie groaned as she opened her eyes to a dark grey sky and rain at 7 am. 

As Laurie slowly peeled herself away from beneath her down comforter, Andy stood on the balcony happily watching cars come up and down the tortuous mountain road. 

He was like a little kid, mesmerized and amused, calling out all the different makes and models we don’t have in the States.

It continued to pour as we went downstairs for breakfast. We were in no hurry to walk into the wet outside world.

After a simple but tasty breakfast, our hotel gave us complimentary day passes for transportation around Verbier which included the gondolas and buses.

As the weather continued to change, we devised 3 plans. 

A) hike 9 miles from Verbier via Clambin and Les Shlerondes to Col Termin and down to Cabane de Louvie.

B) take the bus to Fionnay and walk 2.5 miles and 2800 feet up to Cabane de Louvie.

C) take the gondola from Verbier to La Chaux and hike 6 miles via Col Termin to Cabane de Louvie.

Given the rain and fog we opted to take advantage of our day passes. We figured we could take the gondola up to the top of the mountain, wander around and if the weather looked crappy we could come down and take the bus.

Unfortunately the top portion of the gondola was closed due to inclement weather. We took 2 separate gondolas (opting for a gondola rather than a chairlift because of the intermittent rain and wind) up to La Chaux. 

The clouds rolled in and out bringing moments of sunshine followed by sprinkling rain. The hillsides were green and covered in wildflowers.

Dressed in raincoats we wandered down the road. Once breathing the fresh mountain air and watching how quickly the clouds came and went, we decided to go with option C. 

We didn’t want to miss out on an opportunity to see the surrounding mountains. And it looked like the worst of the rain had passed.

After about a kilometer down the road we noticed a foot path with red and white painted stripes on rocks. This is a signature marking on the Haute Route. 

We traversed the green hillsides, carefully looking at our feet to avoid stepping off the narrow trail. Views of the valley below and snow dusted rocks above drifted in and out with the clouds. 

Unfortunately due to the low lying clouds, we never got the expansive snow capped mountain panoramas that good weather would provide, but we were content to be hiking without rain.

A very nice man in a gear shop in Verbier described the trail today as flat. Thus, we were surprised when our “flat” trail made a sharp left and went straight up a ridge. “If this is what they consider flat I can’t wait to see what inclines look like” Andy said jokingly. 

After 2 hours and 15 minutes of walking, (in Europe they speak of trails in hours and minutes rather than distance), we reached Col Termin. One side was socked in but the other offered views of the small valley towns and their surrounding green fields.

“Everything in Switzerland is so organized” remarked Andy, “even the town layout and roads!”

We met another couple (Phil and Laura) at the Col. They were out for 3.5 weeks hiking a combination of the Tour de Mt Blanc and the Haute Route. Ironically, they were from Santa Cruz – a mere 90 minutes from our home in Oakland.

We both opted for the slightly longer but less steep trail down to the Cabane de Louvie. Shortly after leaving the Col the fog thinned and we could see Lake de Louvie and a small building on the southern end. 

We had spotted our destination but now had to descend 1000 feet to reach it’s warmth. Small piles of wet snowed lined the trail and the surrounding game trails. 

We took our time, gingerly placing our feet to avoid slipping on the wet rocks. We walked through a field of wild flowers and around the west side of the lake.

Within 200 meters of the hut Andy spotted a group do Ibex. Initially he counted 5 but as we got closer there were 14 of them! We watched in delight as these magnificent creatures grazed on grass.

Ibex are the size of dear with bodies more like cows. They are incredibly muscular and solid yet move gracefully up and down steep mountain slopes. They have long beautiful horns which we witnessed being used to scratch a leg and to defend territory.

As we walked away from the ibex it started to spit. We had arrived just in time!

We exchanged our shoes for the cabane crocs and settled into our private room with 2 twin beds.

Not sure what to do with ourselves since it was only 3 pm, we ate a snack and then went back outside to explore, hoping to catch glimpses of the majestic views that our guidebook says this hut affords. 

Unfortunately, soonafter the rain picked up and once again we retreated to the warmth of the hut. 

On days like today we feel grateful to not be camping. It is nice to have space to spread out without touching wet tent walls.

We played cards, chatted with hikers from Singapore, worked on the blog and read about tomorrow’s route until dinner at 7pm. 

We opted for the half board option at the huts which includes dinner and breakfast. Lunch we do on our own. We enjoyed a 4 course meal while sharing stories and plans  with 2 other couples at our table.

Andy nearly fell asleep sitting upright so we chose to retire early. By 8:45pm we were cozily nestled in our beds listening to the rain and wind outside.

Tonight we are grateful for another walking adventure together and our ability to be flexible in ever changing weather conditions.