Andy woke up around 6am to his feet itching like crazy. After rubbing the sleep out of his eyes he noticed a few dozen sand flies circling the vent, which is essentially right above where his feet are in his bed.

As we mentioned yesterday, the holes of the mesh of the vent are large enough that the sand flies can weasel their way in. And boy had they done just that this morning.

Andy shooed away as many of them as he could, then killed as many of them as he saw. Thankfully the early morning clapping and slapping the wooden surfaces of the van didn’t wake up the kids.

Laurie woke up around 630 and Ani around 7am. We had hoped for an early departure given our 3 hour drive to the upper reaches of Abel Tasman National Park but Miles slept in until 8 am. We rarely wake our children from sleep because the silence is so magical!

Around 840am we were on the road with breakfast ready and blue wave packed up and ready to tackle the curvy, mountainous roads.

We were determined to get to town and find a hardware store but we have learned that the roadside viewing areas are worthwhile stops and many include short walks to viewpoints and are good opportunities for us to stretch our legs.

We pulled off the smooth highway and onto a short, pothole ridden one lane road with overgrown trees that took us uphill for a short distance to the parking area.

We then bribed the kids out of the car with a muffin Andy had purchased yesterday at the bakery in Hanmer Springs.

A lovely trail, cooled and shaded by the canopy of trees above led to an open viewing area with peaks holding on to the last of the snow before it all melts away in the summer heat.

Miles declared himself the muffin czar, rationing everyone’s portions as we enjoyed the 360 degree views.

We quickly put an end to the tyrant’s antics, reclaiming our muffin, but the history lesson was cut short due to a visit from two weka birds. We had not seen these creatures before. They were not afraid of humans and approached us in hopes of scoring food.

Miles wanted to feed them but we explained to him why we should never feed any animals. He seemed to understand and proceed to chase them away when they came too close.

After enjoying the views and running back to blue wave through the shaded canopy, we winded our way to the town of Matueka for a resupply.

We found a hardware store and bought bug netting and painters tape to make bug screens for the driver and passenger windows. We are really excited and hopeful this will increase airflow in the van.

We also purchased a usb charged fan and a 12v phone charger as the van has only usb-c ports and us still-stuck-in-the-olden-days folks have usb-a charging cables.

Other items on our list included chord for drying laundry, gloves for when Andy dumps the tanks and hand sanitizer.

We found everything we needed at this hardware store and were incredibly grateful. But we weren’t done yet.

Miles found the toy aisle so we also got an off brand LEGO forklift for him and sand shovels for Ani.

We had lunch at a restaurant that gave off all kinds of hippy and wellness vibes and then restocked our kombucha, veggie and yogurt supply at the grocery store. The kids love kombucha and the cold fizzy is so satiating in the heat

After Andy dumped the tanks and topped off our potable water, it was time to hit the road again and conquer ‘the hill’.

A friendly worker at the hardware store told us that the road up and over Takaka Hill has over 2,000 curves. Andy was excited.

The road was pretty and the curves were sharp and steep. Almost at the top of the hill we came upon a sign for a viewing area.

Without hesitation we pulled in, parked and were greeted by another weka. We’re getting the feeling this birds are ubiquitous to the area.

A dirt path gave way to a boardwalk that led us past unique rocks shaped by rainfall to a very scenic viewing platform. The kids loved the boardwalk. They ran to the viewing area and back. Ani loved it so much she walked the whole thing twice.

After having our fill we got back into the car, crested the hill, and while tempted by caves and another viewing area, we descended the hill and into a beautiful valley with lots of grazing sheep.

As we kept driving, the farmland gave way to coastline and before we knew it we were on a tight, curvy road that twisted its way between the beach to our left and cool rock formations to our right.

It was getting late once again and we still had an hour of driving ahead of us. We have a habit of arriving at camp between 530 and 630pm on this trip. This doesn’t serve the kids as they are usually hungry by then, but as we found out today, this can also lead to late naps. In fact, they both took two naps today. One in the early morning around 10am and now again around 4pm.

The road climbed and climbed. Soon we weren’t near the coast any longer. Then the road turned to dirt. We realized we should have booked a campsite in the southern parts of Abel Tasman National Park and explored that area instead of heading out to the most remote part.

We will hopefully take this as a lesson for later this trip, but for now we have to safely navigate a 25ft campervan through a mostly one lane dirt road with many sharp curves.

Thankfully the road was in good shape and we saw only had to squeeze past one car as we climbed the dirt road.

After cresting the road, we encountered only 1 van but this was at a blind corner and Andy had to brake really hard to avoid a crash. Thankfully Andy is comfortable driving large vehicles in reverse so he backed up to a wide spot in the road to let the van pass.

Around 530pm we finally descended to the remote campground where we plan to stay for two nights.

We drove both arms of the campground, debating where to park blue wave. Eventually we settled into a spot away from other campers but not too far from the beach and ocean.

While the kids were still asleep, we took the bug netting and cut it into the shapes of the windows. We applied the masking tape and in no time we had screens on windows we could open without sand flies getting in!

We are beyond excited.

Without any fans it’s still quite hot in the van, especially when we cook, but with the small usb powered fan and the open windows, it’s much better than it was.

We also taped a piece of the screen above the mesh of the vent as a second barrier. So far no sand flies have come in through the windows or the vent. There are way less sand flies here than our camp yesterday, but they are still out and we hope to keep the out of blue wave.

Miles was getting restless before dinner so we told him to go run around outside and explore. He didn’t want to. We explained to him that exploring is fun and that once outside he would create games.

He doubled down and huffed and puffed harder and louder. Andy decided to sweeten the offer by offering Miles a purple New Zealand bill, which is a $50 note, if he went outside and caught a bird.

Miles, being the smart boy that he is, asked if it would count if he just touched it. Knowing he likely would not even be able to get close to any of the species of birds here, we said yes.

Miles put on his shoes, recruited Ani and went into chase mode. Watching Miles give chase unsuccessfully was comedic and cathartic to us. He was certainly trying though and we commended him for it.

After dinner, which was around 830pm, we went for a walk on the beach. The sand is very coarse and there are shells everywhere. Miles and Ani collected shells before Miles put his feet in the water and didn’t bring them out for over 30 minutes.

He was giggling and jumping as the waves came in. And Ani was running around on the hard sand as happy as a clam.

It was a special moment and one that reminded us that this is why we make the effort to get outside. These experiences are priceless. And ones that they’ll remember for a long time.

Or at least we hope.

Around 930pm, we made our way back to blue wave, after washing our feet at the nearby water fountain. We went inside and settled in, but not before Miles gave one last chase in hopes of earning his $50 bill.

Better luck tomorrow Miles.

Around 11pm, Miles finally fell asleep. But Ani, she was still rowdy and hitting Laurie and giggling. Laurie was getting more and more upset, which made Ani giggle harder and louder.

Eventually, after nursing her a few more times out of sheer desperation, Ani finally fell asleep.

Lesson learned. No more late naps!

Andy and Laurie were up until 3 am turning on and off our cell phone lights in search of mosquitoes. At least 3 times we were certain we had gotten them all and said goodnight, only to be startled again by either an itch or a buzz.

We were ready to throw in the towel. Andy went as far as drafting an email to the rental company to inquire about a partial refund if we return the van early.

The heat, the sand flies, the mosquitoes, the lack of sleep, the kids still being sick, the lack of ventilation in the van, the long travel days; it has caught up with us.

We have learned from backpacking that you never make a big decision on a bad day. You wait until things are better. And if you still feel like doing something different, that’s when you can decide to make a change.

Before leaving Whites Bay we finally convinced the kids to shower. We were able to wash Miles’ body and hair but unfortunately we ran out of water so Ani only got a lukewarm 15 second shower. At least their bodies were no longer sticky.

Twenty minutes after leaving Whites Bay we stopped at a playground that Andy had seen the day before. Sadly it was a bit run down and we didn’t stay long because the sun came out from behind the clouds and it got very hot very quickly.

We were about to leave when Laurie went down a bumpy slide with Ani and spotted a loquat tree. We picked a hat full prior to leaving.

Laurie then spotted a tire swing so Andy drove through the forest toward the beach. We had a few moments of carefree fun enjoying the breeze and lack of bugs.

Miles stayed inside the van to play with his Lego surprises so we opened the back doors of the van so he could at least see the ocean (not that he lifted his head once) and get some fresh air.

Our late starts are nice because we get to relax with the kiddos and enjoy a slower pace, but it means before we know it it’s one or two pm and we’re scrambling to get town chores done with a one or two hour car ride still looming.

Today was no different. We went into the town of Blenheim to resupply, and fill up on water and dump our tanks. Laurie helped fill the water tank while Andy dumped the cassette toilet.

With that necessary task done, we headed to Hedgerows Hydroponic Strawberries. Ani had fallen asleep prior to us getting to the dump station and was still asleep when we got to the strawberry shop.

Laurie and Miles went in to buy strawberries while Andy stayed behind to ensure Ani slept. Sadly, only after 10 minutes or so, Ani was having bad dreams and woke up crying and wanting mama.

Andy tried to console her to no avail, so he took her out to join the rest of the family. Once there she calmed down and enjoyed some amazing strawberries and strawberry ice cream.

After running a few more errands we finally hit the road to Kaikoura. We drove through grassy hills watching the wind create ripples and waves through the grass.

This is New Zealand’s famous Marlborough region. Vineyards cover the hillsides for kilometers. This part of the drive reminded us of the central coast of California.

Around 5pm we finally arrived at the parking lot for the seal colony. Once again, Miles needed convincing to get out of the car and explore. He protested and protested but eventually we peeled him away from the darn tablet loaded with cartoons and out into reality.

The kids enjoyed rock hopping toward the water and were excited to point to the seals when they saw them. Laurie enjoyed the cooler temperatures and the breeze.

We left the beach around 6pm and headed to The Pointe Bed & Breakfast campsite. Here we got to camp in a paddock – essentially a field which apparently is the kiwi thing to do. Miles was hungry and wanted soup so Andy reluctantly got to cooking.

His hesitation was that it would take at least 30 minutes to cook and while it was a lot cooler outside today, it was still warm in the van and cooking soup would only make it hotter inside.

Despite this he made the soup while Laurie and the kids were playing outside the van to the chorus of sheep baaa’ing. It was overcast and windy and Laurie was loving it.

After a while of playing soccer and tag in the grass, Laurie and the kids eventually got cold. It was such a welcomed feeling after days of hot stickiness. We came inside minutes before Andy had finished cooking. Miles proclaimed about a thousand times that he was hungry, making the wait for the food to cool even longer.

Once a satisfactory temperature, Miles ate 2 and 1/2 bowls and Ani ate a few carrots and onions. It was nice to see the kids eating something other than bread and butter and fruit and made the effort of the soup worth it.

After dinner the kids were rather dysregulated, causing frustration for Laurie and Andy.

Laurie wanted to shower and wanted Ani to get a proper shower too. Ani vehemently disapproved but Laurie wasn’t taking no for an answer and took her into the shower with her.

Ani cried intensely for the duration of the shower, bringing Andy to his breaking point. He absolutely hates when we cause unnecessary crying.

Ani fell asleep nursing wrapped in a towel from the shower. With a full tummy Miles was shifting trying to get comfortable with his blankie in the drivers seat. Andy called him over to the passenger seat and in less than 5 minutes he, too, was asleep. Finally, it was calm and quiet.

We basked in this moment, both holding a sleeping child. We texted to communicate, agreeing that we were not going to abruptly force the kids into doing things on this trip any longer.

Andy reminded Laurie of the importance of prepping the kids and making things fun rather than just powering through. We are constantly learning as parents and as partners.

Laurie cleaned off the bed so Andy could transfer Miles to it. But before doing so Andy wanted to have Miles pee.

He tried so hard to move gracefully but the van hallway isn’t very wide, nor are the doorways. Andy bonked Miles’ head twice and arm once en route to the bathroom.

Laurie couldn’t help but laugh while Andy was super apologetic to Miles. Thankfully Miles didn’t wake up and Andy was able to gently place Miles on his side of the bed.

Laurie and Andy were beat at this point and climbed into their respective beds without saying much and tried to go to sleep.

We’re hoping that with the cooler temperatures and the windows closed we avoid having issues with sand flies or mosquitoes tonight.

Ani developed a fever at somepoint during the night. Luckily Miles slept through the many wake ups and requests to nurse.

We rolled out of camp around 8:30am and drove to another part of the Hanmer forest. This walk was full of fairy houses posted on trees and stumps. It was fun to watch the excitement on the kids faces when opening the small doors of the fairy houses.

Just before 10 am we headed over to Hanmer Thermal Pools. We spent the next 90 minutes soaking in various pools and Laurie and Andy took turns going on water slides.

Around 11:30, as the clouds were breaking and the sun was coming out, we were fully pruney, Laurie was getting hot and the kids were ready to leave.

We showered, changed and left. Laurie read about a Saturday market adjacent to the resort that we wanted to check out.

Ani was still pretty sick and feeling tired so she asked to be carried. Miles, who copies Ani regularly also asked to be carried. We tried to explain that he is older and not sick and therefore should walk.

Before we could even finish he was having a meltdown. Fairness is a big deal for Miles and regardless of how we try to explain their differing needs, how he’s well and she’s sick, how he’s 5 and she’s 2, how he’s much older and heavier, he wilts if he doesn’t get the same treatment.

We understand his desire for fairness but melting down every time gets old real quick.

So, Laurie and the kids went to the van and Andy went to check out the market by himself. It was mostly art and jewelry vendors at the market so Andy found a small market and bakery, bought a few fruits, veggies and treats and headed back.

Laurie made lunch for everyone and around 230pm we were finally on the road.

The countryside is beautiful and incredibly scenic here. We drove past gazing sheep and lush green hills, then climbed and skirted past wide rocky river beds that reminded us of Alaska and Nepal.

In town close to our planned camping area we filled up on diesel and decided to stretch our legs before getting to camp since we weren’t sure if there would be any place for the kiddos to run around.

The kids had been watching cartoons on this leg of the drive and when we parked at the trailhead Miles once again protested quite loudly and emphatically, letting us know his displeasure at the thought of turning off the screen and going outside.

After some convincing, we got him out of the car. This place was marked as a walk through a grove on Google maps.

After a short walk to the trailhead we came across an easy access point to a beautiful river. The kids were excited to play in the water, so that’s what we did. Ani got her feet wet first and dug to her heart’s content while Miles took orders and made pizzas and other foods out of the wet sand.

It was getting late and we needed to get going as we had another 20 minutes to drive before making camp.

Predictably, Miles protested because he was having so much fun. Eventually we convinced him it was time to go after making the largest mud calzone anyone has ever seen. We cleaned feet, put on shoes and walked back to blue wave – if we haven’t mentioned it before, that’s what the kids are calling the camper van.

After driving through more stunningly beautiful countryside and over wide, scenic rivers we pulled off at a roadside picnic area.

We are learning that in New Zealand permission to camp somewhere doesn’t come from the absence of a ‘no camping’ sign but from the presence of a sign allowing it.

Andy scouted the side road of the picnic area downhill in hopes of finding a spot by the river. The road didn’t go down to the water but there were dispersed camping options.

Andy drove the narrow road down a 100ft or so, hoping to not scratch the paint of blue wave on the overgrown vegetation.

The spot we chose was open and treeless but secluded from the road and the picnic area.

As soon as we parked the sand flies surrounded us and tried to get in from the only source of fresh air we have, the roof vent.

There are no fans or screens to put on open windows so it gets hot quickly in the van when the engine is not running and the AC is off.

We became hot and uncomfortable in a matter of minutes. To add insult to injury the sand flies were coming in through the mesh of the roof vent.

Andy was on double duty, trying to cook dinner and kill the pesky sand flies. He has dubbed them New Zealand’s mosquitoes (little did we know that the mozzies would find us soon).

Cooking made the camper even hotter inside. We were all sweating and uncomfortable. Andy would open the sliding door of the van periodically for no more than 10 seconds to bring in some cool, fresh air and let some of the hot air out, but sadly he would spend the next minute or two killing the few dozen sand flies that flew into the van.

After dinner we went for a short walk before heading into the van for the night. We ran to avoid being eaten alive by the sand flies but there was nowhere to hide.

It feels like we are back home and in the mountains in late May or early June when the mosquitoes tend to be really bad.

We retreated to the van, ran around it a few times in hopes of tricking the sand flies and ran into the van as quickly as we could. Of course a few dozen flies followed us in.

It was around 830pm and we had lots of dishes to do and the kids were still wide awake. So they watched a cartoon while Laurie washed the dishes and Andy dried them.

We brushed our teeth and changed into our pjs, hoping the cooler weather minimized the onslaught.