Andy had his alarm set for 8am this morning but did not need it. He slept hard and uninterrupted by bugs and was up by 6am.

Laurie and Ani were awake by 730am and when Andy started the van at 830am Miles woke up, somewhat startled.

We left camp early in hopes of finding a parking spot at Milford Sound and to ensure we made our 2 hour boat cruise at 1045am.

It was cloudy with some blue patches when we started our drive, so we were hopeful for views on the boat ride.

The road to Milford Sound was incredibly pretty and wild – with many hairpin turns, narrow sections and a long one lane tunnel.

It rained for most of the drive but the skies were a light gray rather than a thick dark gray the day prior.

There are two parking options at Milford Sound, one that’s closer to the boats and costs $10 per hour, and one that’s free but is about a 25 minute walk to the boats.

We chose the free option and parked in a smaller parking area as the main one was already pretty full. Our van is long and we would rather walk a few extra minutes to have space to ensure others driving large vehicles won’t bump into our van.

Right as we parked a gentleman approached Andy’s window with jumper cables, the universal sign for needing car help. It was raining steadily, there were a ton of sandflies and Andy was still in his pjs and flip flops, but he got out and helped.

It took a few tries but eventually they got a proper ground on our van and got the stranded tourist going again.

With our good deed for the day now completed, we turned our attention to breakfast.

After multiple attempts to find a food that both kids wanted to eat, eventually everyone was fed and dressed and we were ready to go.

We were running a bit late and walked hurriedly toward the visitor center. Andy had hoped there would be a trail from the parking lot so we wouldn’t have to walk alongside the busy road and thankfully there was.

The trail was really pretty, with old growth trees and huge ferns hugging the trail. We took in the views as much as we could as we hurried through. Some of the trail was on a boardwalk which we knew the kids would enjoy but time was of the essence.

Laurie carried Ani for most of the walk and Miles walked like a champ until the last 500 meters at which point he rode on Andy’s shoulders.

At 1040 am when Laurie and Ani got to the ticket counter without Andy and Miles in view, the lady behind the counter paused. She seemed hesitant to give us our tickets since we had cut it so close. In the end she did and we hurried to pier #3 to board our 150 person vessel.

We had walked so fast that both Laurie and Andy were sweating. The kids were in their rain suits with long johns and sweatpants and fleeces underneath.

Laurie was shedding layers like an animal during early spring and Andy was in his T-shirt, the only person on the boat in a T-shirt and he was still sweating.

We found some open seats on the covered deck at the back of the boat. Laurie sat with the kids and Andy sat behind them. Andy started chatting with the Aussies sitting next to him and the older man asked with a smile if they sold jackets where we lived.

Andy and the folks had a good laugh and Andy explained how they were walking hastily and he was still very warm.

The rain from earlier this morning was a distant memory and it was now cloudy with very little wind. Waiting an extra day paid off. Sure it wasn’t as good as a sunny day, but in one of the wettest places in the world, where it rains an average of 264 inches every year, we were very happy with just cloudy skies.

Our boat left the harbor and into the Sound, passing by impressive Bowen Falls almost immediately.

We read on our walk to the harbor that a fjord is a valley carved out by glaciers, then submerged by water. Milford Sound is a stunning fjord with waterfalls big and small, tall and short, falling in every direction. There must be over a thousand waterfalls in this fjord alone.

We walked around the boat, trying out all the spots and ended up claiming a spot in the front of the boat. Eventually the kids got cold so we went inside and the kiddos ate their lunches that Laurie had made for them.

As they ate, the skipper slowed alongside seals resting on rocks. We went outside to get a closer view, then back inside to finish their lunches and eat their complimentary cookies.

The skipper then stopped at a sizable waterfall and warned that everyone outside would get very wet. Most people retreated inside or to the right side of the ship, but Laurie chose to stay out and within seconds was absolutely soaked.

When the boat turned around to return back to the docks, the kids ate another chocolate chip cookie (likely the highlight of the boat trip for them).

With more sugar in their system, the kiddos kept from being bored by doing laps around the boat fans walking up and down the stairs.

Before we knew it, we were back at the harbor. We were pleased with how well the kids did on the boat. Laurie thought this was their first boat ride but Miles corrected her that we were all on a fishing boat last summer in Alaska. We disembarked and went in search of the Milford Sound swing.

The swing was underwhelming and Miles complained about wanting to be carried from the moment Ani asked to be carried. He wants everything to be fair and equal and doesn’t understand about their age difference, differing capabilities and expectations.

We left the swing quickly and went to play on the low tide beach instead. Anticipating meltdowns on the way back to the van, Andy left to bring the van closer.

When it was time to leave the beach and meet Andy in the closer parking lot, Miles remembered Andy promising to carry him back and refused to walk the short distance.

Laurie navigated the needs and emotions of both kids and eventually got them to the parking lot right as Andy arrived.

We drove back toward Te Anau and got to see all the views we missed yesterday. This is a stunning place and stunning part of the country and we’re grateful to have seen it.

We had also hoped Ani would fall asleep as we drove. Thankfully she closed her eyes about 10 minutes into the drive.

After driving uphill on the really twisty road out of Milford Sound, and while waiting for our turn to go through the tunnel, a kea bird landed on our hood and started pecking at the windshield.

Keas look like oversized parrots. They are very pretty and unique. Miles was sitting in the front seat and tried to scare it off but it was too interested in the freeze dried strawberry bag we had on the front dashboard.

We all had a laugh as it hopped to the mirror and then onto the ground as Miles successfully slapped the window.

We let Miles watch on the iPad with headphones on to maximize Ani’s nap but after a short 20 minutes she stirred. Unfortunately she saw Miles watching and that was the end of her nap. She was suddenly awake and wanted to watch too.

Our 2.5 hour drive went by fast. We gave both kids a break from watching and Andy entertained Ani by ticking her feet and making funny faces while Miles napped.

As the road became more narrow and windy, we let Ani watch so Andy could focus on driving. Miles woke up 2 minutes before we parked in Lumsden and screamed and cried because he wanted to watch too.

These outbursts are a very clear indicator of how addicted he is to watching. And if we say no to watching he literally melts down.

In moments like this we know we need to change things up. Andy came up with a new rule for the rest of the trip; they watch one day, they don’t watch the next. One day on, one day off. Hopefully this will help Miles regulate more.

Once the screen was off and we were level ish, we encouraged the kids to go play at the playground which was literally outside the sliding door. Miles screamed and shouted some more about not wanting to go to the park. He was in a “NO” mood!

Eventually we all went out and played. Miles enjoyed the swing and Ani loved driving the train. Laurie did the teeter totter with Miles and jumped on the in ground trampoline with Ani. Around 6 pm we went across the street to the 4 Square Market to buy more bread and inquire about the pool which we had read about.

The town of Lumsden allows campervans to park in any public parking lot (or carpark as they call it) and give you access to the public pool and showers for $5 per person. Most people take advantage of this for the shower, but we were more excited to go swimming.

The pool was large and empty of people except for one other local family. Laurie hopped in first and encouraged Miles who was hesitant because it wasn’t as warm as the thermal pools but once we saw a squirt gun he was game.

Ani immediately started shivering so Laurie took her out and they went to take a warm shower. Andy and Miles stayed in the water for another 30 minutes playing a game where Miles sat on a kick board and attempted to spray Andy who dove under water and popped up in a different spot.

We warmed up leftover soup for dinner and ate in the gravel parking lot of the pool. Once done we drove back to the playground to park for the night.

The kids colored for a bit as a form of a wind down activity.

Moments into the activity, Ani bumped her chin attempting to get onto the bed. She slipped and fell, hitting her chin on the way down.

We pondered taking her to the doctor the next day in Queenstown since her chin started to bleed a little bit but upon looking under the bandaid and steri strips the wound was mostly dry.

So we put on a new bandaid and calmed her down with nursing and snuggles. Ani bumping her chin again sombered the mood in the van. We were all ready for bed. After brushing everyone’s teeth, the kids were finally asleep by 1045pm.

Laurie woke up around 1:30am and said she was being bitten. Andy woke up and turned on a flashlight, saw the mosquito and killed it, which was full of blood.

We’ll spare you the details but Andy was up until 430am killing at least a dozen mosquitoes.

We are puzzled as to where the mosquitoes are coming from. It seemed too windy in the evening when we were coming and going for this many mozzies to make it inside.

And if they did, why would they wait until the middle of the night to start biting us? Mosquitoes are not sophisticated or tactical in that way- at least we don’t think so!

We closed the netted windows thinking maybe they are contortionists and were getting in through there but they still appeared. The constant appearance of only a few mosquitoes makes Andy feel like they are coming in from somewhere during the night.

But where? Today’s the day to investigate. But it’s raining and it’s supposed to rain for most of the day. Andy wanted to get underneath the van and look for open gaps where they could be coming in. But that likely will not happen.

Where we had camped we were partially protected under a canopy of trees so we didn’t feel the extent of the rain until on the main highway.

Rather than driving 45 minutes to our next campsite we headed back into town for service, to get more bread (the kids are loving bread, butter and honey for bfast) and to shower, dump and fill and do anything else that catches our eyes.

It was a gray and dreary day. Miles practiced writing letters on the fogged up windows of the van from the showers.

Both kids showered today. We are being very cautious with Ani and not getting her face or hair wet to avoid the possibility of getting her chin wet.

In a blink of an eye it was 4pm. The dump was on the way out of town so we kept that task for last.

With that done we drove to camp in the rain. Visibility was fine but all views were blanketed by thick grey clouds.

Even with the cloud cover, we could tell this was a special place and imagined how pretty it must be when the sun is shining and the sky is blue.

We drove into Fjiordland National Park and through Eglinton Valley. The many pull offs through Eglinton Valley made Andy want to come through here again another day when the weather was clear but alas, we get the experience we get for a reason. and perhaps the many waterfalls that are only visible when it rains is what we were supposed to see.

We pulled into Cascade Creek Campsite around 515pm. This is the largest camping area we’ve been to. Online there are 100 reservable spaces, but the way Kiwis like to camp it can accommodate 3 times that many vehicles. Ok that’s a joke, partially.

The last 20 minutes of the drive we passed fields and fields of lupine. Even in the rain the lupine are stunningly pretty. Their vibrant pinks and whites and deep purples really pop against the surrounding green brush.

The kids were both asleep, taking late naps since we started our drive later in the day. Andy made soup while they (plus Laurie) slept so it would be ready when they woke up.

It rained hard all evening, only breaking for a few moments around 8pm. We really wanted to get out and run around a bit but also wanted to prevent another bug riddled night. Our theory was that if we didn’t open doors or windows and taped up any places we saw light coming in (and thus maybe bugs could get in), then we could get some good uninterrupted sleep.

The kids slept until 6pm so they were half tired and half awake at 10pm, and fell asleep around 11pm.

We’re not letting them take late naps again. We have said this before and fall into the trap of not wanting to disturb their peaceful sleep. But in the end it doesn’t serve them at all. Maybe they can take a cat nap, but no 45 – 90 minute naps after 4pm.

We have an early morning tomorrow (it is all relative but 8:30 is early for us on this trip!) Fingers crossed we have a bug-less night and the kids stay asleep too.

We all slept hard last night, especially Ani. When she got out of bed this morning, she looked at herself in the mirror of the bathroom door for quite a while.

She saw the bandaids on her face and touched them numerous times. When Andy asked her if she remembered what happened the night before, she didn’t reply. She just kept touching the bandaids.

Her focus was broken by a huge gust of wind that shook the van the hardest thus far this morning.

The forecast called for rain today with winds gusting to 75 kph in the morning. The forecast was spot on.

We’re not sure when it started raining but at 6am Andy got up and closed the open window on the passenger side.

Throughout the morning blue wave was pummeled by heavy rain and intense winds.

We were in no rush to be anywhere as we were supposed to be at this campground for tonight as well. We have hopes of going outside sometime today and will likely leave since the weather is not supposed to improve much tomorrow either.

We ate breakfast while waving goodbye to all of the vans and campers leaving throughout the morning.

We spent the morning snuggling in bed listening to the rain, finger knitting and reading Richard Scarry books. Then Andy played with the kids while Laurie organized, cleaned and washed last night’s and this morning’s dishes.

Soon after, Ani took a nap and Laurie and Miles beaded until she woke up around 2pm.

The wind had mellowed out a lot since morning but the steady rain persisted.

When Ani woke up she and dada beaded while mama and Miles rested for a bit before playing with Legos.

Around 4pm, after Laurie had longingly looked at people walking in the rain all day, we all put on our rain clothes and ventured outside.

Laurie packed the kid’s rain suits and rain boots for situations like this. Even if we only use the rain suits this one time, it will have been worth it.

Once outside Miles made a beeline for the deepest puddle and Ani followed suit. Laurie had hopes of going on a hike but that was not in the cards. The kids were outside and they were enjoying stomping in puddles. We were content with the fact that we had gotten out of the van.

After 15 minutes of stomping and jumping and kicking, the wind picked up and we retreated to blue wave. We put up a makeshift clothesline inside the van to dry all of our clothes, put on dry clothes and are got ready to drive someplace new.

When we were out in the rain we could see patches of blue sky, particularly in the direction down valley from which we had come.

Within minutes of driving out of Hooker Valley, we were greeted by blue skies, sun and ferocious wind. It’s as if we had entered a different world.

And it goes to show that what our neighbor Paul had said about New Zealand when we were at Whites Bay is rather accurate. One only has to drive a short distance to see new weather and landscape. Compared to the States, where we have larger amounts of scenery but further dispersed.

We stopped to take pictures of a rainbow and drove the 45 minutes to our freedom camping spot looking out over Lake Ruataniwha.

This is the type of freedom camping Andy loves. An open area that stretches for about a 1/2 kilometer. Park where you’d like and enjoy your camp.

Andy parked the van in an orientation that allowed for lake views when the rear doors were open and excitedly went to open the rear doors when the van was relatively level.

Laurie and the kids appreciated the view and sunshine for about 30 seconds until a gust of wind came out of nowhere and shut one of the doors.

Andy quickly shut the rear doors and parked the van the opposite way, with the nose into the wind. The forecast called for winds gusting to 100 kph. It sure felt like it outside.

Nobody wanted to go outside so the kids and Laurie played while Andy cooked dinner: teriyaki chicken and broccoli.

Ani ate well yesterday but for most of this trip she really hasn’t eaten much at all. And she has nurses exponentially more. Sadly today was no different. I guess we have to find another Indian restaurant.

After dinner we finally went outside despite the wind and the dark clouds coming in from the west. It was almost 9pm at this point but the air was cool and refreshing. Perfect for a dance party!

We danced. We ran. We chased toddler Crocs being blown away by the wind. We really had a fun time together. All of us were laughing and light hearted.

In the back of our minds we knew that bedtime might be challenging tonight given how late it was for shenanigans, but lighthearted moments like these don’t come often so we just enjoyed it and figured we’d deal with what comes.

Around 930pm we finally corralled the kids into the van. The meltdowns began almost immediately.

Miles was a real doozy. Laurie had to tell Miles at least a dozen times to stop or to not hit or to listen. She was getting really frustrated. Andy offered to step in but it didn’t help. He ended up getting even more frustrated with him.

Sadly our lightness and moments of connection from earlier seemed like a distant memory.

Eventually we all calmed down and were able to get the kids dressed, their teeth brushed and their bladders emptied.

Miles felt the need to connect with Andy after how things went at bedtime so he came upstairs to sleep.

Ani nursed in the bed below and we all fell asleep to the sounds of howling wind and rain crashing into the side of the blue wave.